Ama Dablam | 2023 SW Ridge

A India expedition to Ama Dablam in 2023 via SW Ridge, led by Yash Khandelwal. Summit reached on 28th April 2023. 14 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 11036
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD23107
Peak ID AMAD
Year 2023
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality India
Leaders Yash Khandelwal
Sponsor Pioneer Adventure Ama Dablam Expedition 2023
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Canada, France, Georgia, Germany, Japan, UK, USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date -
Summit Date 2023-04-28
Summit Time -
Summit Days 0
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6814
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 12
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites Smt(28/04,07/05)
Route Notes Report from Justyne Morlain: Approach: EBC trail BC 18/04 4990m ABC 19/04 5400m C1 20/04 5800m C2 6200m (didn’t sleep at C2) Smt 28/04 by Coline Girod HPt 02/05 6450m by Justyne Morlain Left BC on 2 May Sherpas: None Oxygen: Not taken, not used Records: First French female solo ascent Other peaks: Lobuche East, Island Peak • Acclimatization The duet first reached Khumbu in the beginning of April. On 14 April, duet climbed Lobuche East from Dzonglha (4900m) in 6h (3:00-9:00 am) despite poor acclimatization. Then knowing too dry conditions were not good for their primary objective (the duet had intended to repeat “Le quatuor à corde”, route of 22-23 October 2018 by 4 French http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215115) or some other project on the North Face (Spanish route among other things), they chose to try for Ama Dablam instead. Bad weather would prevent them for any summit first. 18 April: Reached BC (4990m) 19 April: High Camp (5400m) 20-21 April: 2 nights at C1 (5800m) 22 April: duet touched C2 (6200m) and went back down to High Camp for sleeping on the same day. From there, disagreeing on the method, the pair split for a while. Girod would go on her side to Ama Dablam’s normal route. Meanwhile Morlain had met two other French climbers, Nathan Lioret and Aude Léglise. The trio would further acclimatize on Island Peak, climbing it in a day round-trip from Chhukung on 27th of April. • Coline Girod AMAD, SMT on 28 April 2023 Knowing bad weather was approaching, Girod climbed Ama Dablam’s normal route in a single push over a two days round trip from BC on 27 and 28 of April. 26 April: night at BC. 27 April: up to C2, leaving it at 23:30-23:45. 28 April: summit at circa 9;30 am, back to BC on the same day. 30 April: left BC for Pangboche. Wind would accompany her for the whole ascent mostly carried during the night. After a cold summit in the morning of the 28th of April, shared with other ropes, she came back down to BC on the same day. According to the HD, it’s the third solo female ascent of the peak (both previous times by the same normal route) and first French solo. Previous solo ascents of AMAD: Mallorie Sue Estenson, AMAD-223-11. Carole Fuchs, AMAD-163-60. Coline and Justyne flew from Pangboche to KTM by helicopter on the 5th of May. • Justyne Morlain AMAD, HPt on 2 May 2023 Justyne attempted the normal route a few days after Coline’s ascent with her 2 aforementioned partners. All 3 together would be alone on the mountain. Following recent snowfalls, they wouldn’t make it to the summit; Lioret and Léglise abandoning circa 200m below the summit. 29 April: trio slept at BC (4990m) 30 April: trio slept at C1 (5800m) 01 May: trio went up to C2 (6200m), leaving the latter at 11 pm for the summit push. 02 May: Morlain abandoned at circa 6450m at 3 am (AMS). Lioret and Leglise abandoned at 6650m at 9 am. All were back at noon at C2, then to Pangboche on the same day. Coline and Justyne flew from Pangboche to KTM by helicopter on the 5th of May.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Pioneer Adventure
Commercial Route True
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2464471
Year 2023
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Unknown
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

14 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kelli Lorraine Spencer F 1991 USA Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Yash Khandelwal M 1992 India Leader Bareilly, UP, India - Details Other expeditions
Yoshiaki Bando M 1967 Japan Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Alexandre Berry M 1988 France Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Lewis William Findlay M 1987 UK Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Coline Alice Melvina Girod F 2003 France Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Joseph Andrew Kratz M 1972 Canada Climber Scarborough, Ontario - Details Other expeditions
Michael Lees M 1982 Canada Climber Calgary, Alberta Attorney Details Other expeditions
Justyne Marie Yvonne Morlain F 1996 France Climber Saint-Quentin, Aisne, France - Details Other expeditions
Matthias Schwotzer M 1969 Germany Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Gia Tortladze M 1960 Georgia Climber Tbilisi, Georgia Archeologist Details Other expeditions
Benjamin Scott Wright M 1991 UK Climber Barrow-in-Furness, Cumbria, England - Details Other expeditions
Sonam Tshering Lama M 1997 Nepal H-A Worker Kiul-6, Sindhupalchowk - Details Other expeditions
Chhangwa Sherpa M 1984 Nepal H-A Worker Makalu-5, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.