Ama Dablam | 2022 N Ridge

A USA expedition to Ama Dablam in 2022 via N Ridge, led by August Franzen. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 10759
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD22110
Peak ID AMAD
Year 2022
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders August Franzen
Sponsor High Altitude Dreams Ama Dablam Expedition 2022
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date -
Summit Date -
Summit Time -
Summit Days 0
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Abandoned due to HAPE by one member
High Point (m) 0
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC,xxx
Route Notes August Franzen Instagram report: The North Ridge of Ama Dablam. In April, Cory Schmidt and I found ourselves on this ridge with a long awaited weather window and favorable snow/ice conditions. Not a puff of wind and everything was calm all the way up to the 6812m (22,349 ft) summit. We had attempted an alpine style ascent of this mammoth line and were on the cusp of the point of no return: our rack was meager and the opportunity to retreat was fading. Cory had developed a cough throughout our climb and it began to work it’s way deeper and deeper into his lungs the higher we climbed. In retrospect, we should’ve caught onto the situation sooner...but we didn’t. Lulled by a perfect summit window, we continued up. We had been steady and moving through the night, climbing ice runnels and mixed alpine choss by headlamp and moonlight. By sunrise Cory’s cough had grown deeper and more frequent. After pulling over a cruxy headwall, I stared up at moderate terrain and the snowy ridge that would put us on the summit and safety of the fixed lines on the standard SW Ridge route. While I was elated and convincing myself that we would stand on top of Ama Dablam, at the belay, Cory’s cough sunk deeper until he experienced the dreaded gurgling and crackles within his lungs. It was now all too apparent: Cory had developed HAPE (high altitude pulmonary edema) high on the ridge. The clock was now ticking and our position was a tricky one, push to the summit and safety of fixed lines, or drop elevation quickly as possible, but roll the dice and hope our rack will be sufficient to make it down. Down we went. Eventually, we escaped the mountain with just enough gear to bail. Ultimately, we turned around from a dream line under blue skies. We had traveled across the globe, trained like never before and went broke in the process. But in the end, we both live to climb another day. What more could you really ask for?
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency High Altitude Dreams
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2832
Year 2022
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n ridge

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
August Maurice Franzen M 1996 USA Leader Valdez, Alaska - Details Other expeditions
Cory Joseph Schmidt M 1996 USA Climber Anchorage, Alaska - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD22110 - - https://www.instagram.com/augustfranzen/?hl=en - - -