Ama Dablam | 2022 SW Ridge

A Canada expedition to Ama Dablam in 2022 via SW Ridge, led by Dominic Asselin. Summit reached on 15th April 2022. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 10751
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD22102
Peak ID AMAD
Year 2022
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Canada
Leaders Dominic Asselin
Sponsor Attitude Montagne Friends Ama Dablam Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2022-04-03
Summit Date 2022-04-15
Summit Time -
Summit Days 12
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6700m due to exhaustion
High Point (m) 6700
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(03/04,4530m),C1(07/04,5800m),C2(09/04,6000m),xxx(15/04,6700m)
Route Notes Reports from Dominic Asselin (Attitude Montage FB page): 11 April Preparations for the final push are almost complete and Ama Dablam team will soon see the top of this mythical mountain. The team also lost a combat warrior who joined base camp and won't be in the final push. "The two days at altitude were intense!" 4 out of 6 members were at Camp 2. Daniel and Isabelle stayed at camp 1. Daniel to regain strength but Isabelle unfortunately suffered a severe acute mountain sickness coupled with a cold. She still spent the second scheduled night at camp 1 since the descent to base camp at the end of the day (reministering, the moraine crossing -bolders- and 1300m of elevation) would have taken too much energy. It's really in these moments that we see the mutual help. A team. The next day, everyone took Isa's gear to enable him to go back down to relief base camp! That's the end of the adventure to the summit for her, but she's coming out very proud and now hoping to sort out the cold and especially the cough (family and friends she's doing well despite everything! ). Otherwise, the last two days of base camp have done the team great good. Rest, shower, nap, hearty meal! Tomorrow is the start for the last stretch on the mountain. Date planning in Nepal: April 12 Camp 1, April 13 Camp 2, April 14 Rest day Camp 2, on the night of April 14-15 Summit and back to Camp 2 (ideally Camp 1) - Day 15-20, April 16 Back to Camp basic! The efforts required will be superhuman for the next few days! Think good for our mountaineers!" 21 April 11:20 pm the dial rings it's time to prepare for the two biggest days of the expedition. The frimas of the tent falls with every move. The temperature outside feels good At midnight five it’s time for me to go in the lead with the first part of the group The Grey Tower, the first section to cross, is a succession of vertical rock climbing passages with rather loose blocks. The risk of dropping it on the rest of the team is a high probability, so we have to climb the 175 meters of the tower as quickly as possible as the others wait in the dark and cold for us to finish. What at this altitude and at night is a real challenge. We then attack the mushroom stop, which is a succession of snow and rock paths intertwining vertical and cross sections exposed on anchors of ice and snow. It's at this moment in the dark that the weather decides to show us this so it can. Temperature is dropping drastically and the wind is picking up. The fight against the cold has just begun. Coming to camp 3, the rope disappears under the ice. Impossible to get around this 15 meter section. So Matthew and I start the long digging work to get this one free. Twenty minutes later and hanging on the rope, the ice is melting and the anchor is slipping, which gives me a little shivering, fortunately the anchor is still holding on, in pain and misery, and I stop slipping. Once up, I rest the latter in the safest way possible so the crew can track me. We pass the old camp 3 where abandoned tents accumulate and we enter the summit cone through a spilling crevice that will unfortunately be the end of Jonathan and Daniel's ascent, with the help of our assistant guides will give everything to succeed this passage in vain. So they shall return to camp 2 My part of the team continues to climb to the top, burnout is starting to set in and Vincent is slowing it down. Mathieu and I find ourselves waiting repeatedly in the cold and wind to the point where my four jackets and my gore-tex are no longer enough to keep me warm. Still, we continue the climb. Near the summit, Vincent joins us. It's clear in his eyes that he can't keep this pace up and go down without risk. At the same time I get a radio call that Pierre is not doing well. He's exhausted and can't do these manipulations anymore. Mathieu and I look each other in the eyes, our decision was made. Heading back 80 meters from the summit. I join Pierre and our assistant guide asks me to take care of him. He's clearly not well, but Pierre is showing strength and seems able to carry on the downhill by himself. After a while nothing goes right He's having trouble manipulating his way down recall. So I'm taking over all the manipulation for him. Seven hours later we are heading back to camp 2, tired but happy to be there. Shortly after we arrived, Pierre asks me to come see him in his tent. Eight of his fingers are starting to blacken. At the moment, it's hard to understand what happened, frostbites don't turn black immediately, normally. I rate it out Our only solution will be to go down to base camp and reevaluate the situation the next day. Exhausted we are spending the night in camp 2 The next day we pack up all the gear and head to base camp crushed underweight. Reminders of the yellow tower, exposed crosses, big rock walks, helping Pierre pass the sections. After 10 hours of descending, we finally made it to base camp. Exhausted and happy. The next day, Peter's fingers didn't get any better, despite what he told me. He's too strong. I ask him to choose the option of evacuation for his own good. The chopper arrives, the tears flow and Pierre takes off in the air. We just got deprived of some team force time. Two days, 46 km walking, 3053 meters negative, 1363 meters positive elevation, a flight to Kathmandu and we're finally back to civilization and reunited with Peter. After 3 days in the hospital, he couldn't wait to see us. His fingers are still black, but he's fine. There's still some misunderstanding as to what happened to him. A mixture of frost and too high blood pressure that stopped the blood from reaching to his fingertips. This should be alright with time. We didn’t make it to the top of the mountain, but everyone did and more.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Friends Adventure Team
Commercial Route True
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2462517
Year 2022
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Dominic Asselin M 1979 Canada Leader Val-David, Quebec - Details Other expeditions
Mathieu Beaudoin M 1980 Canada Climber Montreal, Quebec - Details Other expeditions
Jonathan Guertin M 1980 Canada Climber Montreal, Quebec - Details Other expeditions
Daniel Lajoie M 1980 Canada Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Isabelle Losier F 1984 Canada Climber Val-David, Quebec - Details Other expeditions
Vincent Marcil M 1979 Canada Climber Montreal, Quebec - Details Other expeditions
Pierre Moreau M 1965 Canada Climber - - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD22102 - - https://z-p3-upload.facebook.com/AttitudeMontagne/posts/10165972182265231 - - -