Ama Dablam | 2022 SW Ridge

A Taiwan expedition to Ama Dablam in 2022 via SW Ridge, led by Chan Chiao-Yu. Summit reached on 2nd April 2022. 22 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 10750
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD22101
Peak ID AMAD
Year 2022
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Taiwan
Leaders Chan Chiao-Yu
Sponsor 8K Expeditions Ama Dablam Expedition 2022
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia, Hungary, Morocco, Netherlands, Norway, Peru, Poland, Romania, Spain, USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2022-03-28
Summit Date 2022-04-02
Summit Time -
Summit Days 5
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6814
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 15
Summit Members 8
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 7
Summit Hired 7
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(28/03),C1,C2,Smt(02,05,09,21,24/04)
Route Notes The Sherpa rope-fixing team members were supplied by 8K Expeditions and summited on 2 Apr. Report from Tri-Fish Chan: Approach: Gokyo->Pangboche->BC BC 28/03 4530m C1 30/03 5700m C2 04/04 6100m Smt 05/04 by Chan and Chhiring Namgyal Sherpa at 10:30 am. After the summit descened to C2 and on 06/04 down to BC. Left BC on 07/04 by helicopter back to Kathmandu. On 11/04 Chan took a helicopter to Annapurna 1 BC. Sherpa: Chhiring Namgyal Sherpa, Solukhumbu, 26 years old Garth Miller and Prem Magar were clients of SST on 8K Expeditions permit. Aldo Guerrero and his client Maarten de Klerk approached via Tengboche to Island Peak to Ama Dablam BC with plans to continue on to Baruntse after their AMAD climb. Jannicke Dahl and Thomas Lone suffered from infections and bad weather near the end of April. Dahl was infected at BC and did not attempt to climb. Lone attempted to climb alone, but was stricken at C2 after climbing from BC in one day. He made a summit attempt the next day, but was too weak to go beyond the C3 site. Report from Dhal's Instagram page: There was no Ama Dablam on me. In base camp I got an infection, which is very difficult to get rid of at this altitude. The body was completely exhausted and after spending 4.5 hours on a 3-hour trip to base camp, we had no doubts. A top push for me would be indefensible. Normally we would have gone down to a lower village to rest and let our bodies gather strength to recover. But this time the weather was against us. The weather forecast threatened strong winds, whiteout and extreme amounts of snow 3 days after arriving at base camp. We had to reverse our entire plan and make a risky choice: Cancel the summit or send Thomas alone solo? Thomas wanted to try! And at 3:00 a.m. that night, he got up to hit the summit. He had bad time and had to skip High camp + Camp 1 and go all the way to camp 2 in one stage. That means heavy climbing up to 1300 meters in height and people in the base camp shook their heads when he confidently threw his 30 kg rucksack on his shoulders and started his ambitious journey towards the top. Already 12 hours later he reached C2! And proved again that he is at the top of climbers. Unfortunately, he developed a fever overnight, with symptoms similar to what I had. He therefore spent a day in C2 before attempting the summit, but after spending 4.5 hours up to C3 he realized that his body was too weak and that something was wrong. He was alone on the mountain and made the mature choice to turn around. I heard on the walkie-talkie that he was really sick and felt my stomach tighten. I therefore packed my daypack and climbed 1000m to meet him, follow him down to base camp and carry the 30 kg bag for him. After 9 hours we finally met on the mountain, in fog and snow. Tears welled up in both of our eyes and we began the descent together. Thomas was mentally fit, but I have never seen such a feverish and exhausted body before. It cut my heart every time we passed a possible tent site and Thomas pointed to the ground. I saw how much pain he was in but he continued to push down. We both know being sick at altitude is dangerous. 15 hours after I left base camp we were finally safely down again. Report from Vitaliy Musiyenko: BC 18/04 4700m C1 19/04 5800m C2 20/04 6000m Smt 21/04 by Musiyenko and Mestre at 12:18 pm. Left C2 at 5:45 am, summited at 12:18 pm, stayed about 1 hour on summit, then descended to C2. Climb went well and descent went well. Returned to camp in about a 10-hour round trip (from C2 to summit and back). No Sherpas, no oxygen. "We used Ama Dablam as acclimatization for Nuptse, so we actually spent one more night at C2 and on the following day (04/23) hiked down and all the way back to Chhukung.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency 8K Expeditions
Commercial Route True
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2462504
Year 2022
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

22 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Chiao-Yu (Tri-Fish) Chan F 1987 Taiwan Leader Taipei, Taiwan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Bouchra Baibanou F 1969 Morocco Climber Sale, Morocco Engineer Details Other expeditions
Paulina Jolanta Beigun F 1985 Poland Climber Spain? - Details Other expeditions
Jannicke Kristine Dahl Oeien F 1990 Norway Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Maarten De Klerk M 1969 Netherlands Climber Muenster, North Rhine-Westphalia, Germany Management consultant Details Other expeditions
Aldo Vladimir Guerrero Sotomayor M 1977 Peru Climber Detmold, North Rhine-Westphalia, Germany Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Mario Lago Benito M 1996 Spain Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Thomas Erling Lone M 1995 Norway Climber Akershus, Norway Student Details Other expeditions
Oriol Martinez De Juan M 1971 Spain Climber Barcelona, Spain - Details Other expeditions
Mihaita Vicentiu Matei M 1976 Romania Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Nicholas Taylor Mestre M 1989 USA Climber Driggs, Idaho - Details Other expeditions
Garth Neal Miller M 1974 Australia Climber Henley-on-Thames, Oxford, England Airline pilot Details Other expeditions
Vitaliy Musiyenko M 1986 USA Climber Visalia, California Registered nurse Details Other expeditions
Csaba Precup M 1983 Hungary Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Anca Hortensia Racatean F 1985 Romania Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Prem Magar M 1993 Nepal H-A Worker Taksindu-4, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Chhiring Namgyal/Namgel Sherpa M 1991 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Mingma Temba Sherpa M 1994 Nepal H-A Worker Chaurikharka-6, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ngima Dawa Sherpa M 1977 Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Tenzing (Pasang Tenje) Sherpa M 1981 Nepal H-A Worker Walung, Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Dorchi Sherpa M 1994 Nepal H-A Worker Makalu-5, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Tamang M 1977 Nepal H-A Worker Lura, Salleri-9, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD22101 - - https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/summit-route-opens-on-mt-amadablam - - -