Ama Dablam | 2021 W Face

A Czech Republic expedition to Ama Dablam in 2021 via W Face, led by Zdenek Hak. Summit reached on 12th November 2021. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 10672
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD21322
Peak ID AMAD
Year 2021
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Czech Republic
Leaders Zdenek Hak
Sponsor Czech Ama Dablam Expedition 2021
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lukla->Gokyo->Cho La->Lobuche East->BC
Basecamp Date 2021-10-30
Summit Date 2021-11-12
Summit Time 1630
Summit Days 13
Total Days 16
Termination Date 2021-11-15
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6814
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(30/10,4600m),C1(09/11,5200m),Biv1(10/11,6000m),Biv2(11/11,6300m),Smt(12/11)
Route Notes Approach: Lukla->Gokyo->Gokyo Ri->Cho La->Lobuche East for acclimitization. Route: West Face via American Direct route Left normal Base Camp on 9 Nov. Went below the face for C1 on at 5200m, stayed the night. Biv 1: 10 Nov started climbing at 5 am, perfect conditions. Used the ridge under the American route, to the right side because the snow conditions were firmer than on the left side where snow was like sugar. Climbed for 11 hours. Mixed rock and ice climbing. Arrived 4 pm at Biv 1 at 6000m. Biv 2: 11 Nov started too late at 10:30 am because we were waiting for the sun. We climbed 5 hrs approx. till 6300m: climbing was so difficult because there were many seracs. We found the route between the seracs with icy ridges with a lot of unstable snow. It was really hard; we didn’t imagine it to be like this. It was dangerous during this climb. Arrived at 4 pm at Biv 2. Summit day: Left next day 12 Nov. Woke at 4 am and started at 6 am. First part was very technical rock and mix climbing below the big serac. Americans went right, whilst we went directly up, finally able to climb the same route as Smid, about 200-300m till the summit. [Our first plan was to repeat the Miroslav Smid 1986 Czech route all the way, but it was not possible. 35 years ago there was more snow and ice. Now too rocky, no snow, and the serac is deadly. On the ridge you are safe.] Rappelled down to C1 normal route and arrived at 7 pm and stayed the night. 13 Nov left at 7 am and arrived at BC at 9 am. Summit date: 12 Nov at 4:30 pm. Spent half hour on the summit. Hak left BC on 15th Nov by walking back to Lukla. Kacha went on a trek.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Utmost Adventure
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2464612
Year 2021
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Zdenek Hak M 1980 Czech Republic Leader Mala Skala, Czech Republic Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jakub (Kuba) Kacha M 1993 Czech Republic Climber - - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD21322 - - https://explorersweb.com/2021/11/13/czechs-climb-ama-dablams-west-face-via-the-american-direct-route/ - - -
AMAD21322 - - https://www.desnivel.com/expediciones/zdenek-hak-y-kuba-kacha-repiten-la-american-direct-al-ama-dablam-en-estilo-alpino/ - - -
AMAD21322 AAJ Griffin, Lindsay Ama Dablam, West Face, Damilano Route and Rapid Ascent of American Direct - 96:287 (2022) -
AMAD21322 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216129 - - -