Ama Dablam | 2021 SW Ridge

A Italy expedition to Ama Dablam in 2021 via SW Ridge, led by Emrik Favre. Summit reached on 11th November 2021. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 10658
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD21308
Peak ID AMAD
Year 2021
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Emrik Favre
Sponsor Italian Tengkangpoche-Ama Dablam Expedition 2021
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach From Tengkangpoche
Basecamp Date 2021-11-09
Summit Date 2021-11-11
Summit Time 1100
Summit Days 2
Total Days 3
Termination Date 2021-11-12
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6814
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Summited Tengkangpoche (TKPO-213-02), attempted Yasa Thak (YASA-213-01)
Campsites BC(09/11),C2(10/11,6000m),Smt(11/11)
Route Notes BC 09/11 C2 10/11 6000m (only Bovard, Perruquet) Smt 11/11 by all members. Cazzanelli and Favre from BC to summit in one push. Cazzanelli started at BC on 11/11 at 6:30 am, on the summit at 1 pm. Favre started at 3:30 am, on the summit at 11 am. Perruquet and Bovard started from C2 at 7 am, on the summit at 11:30 am. Cazzanelli and Perruquet back to BC at 5 pm, Bovard and Favre at 6 pm. Left BC on 12/11. Oxygen: Not taken, not used. Speed Ascent Report from Cazzanelli: Cazanelli started at 6:30 am from a specific “solid point” of the base camp (a stone grave, as he had chosen in Manaslu BC) at 4567m. From there: In 1:00 to Yak Camp In 1:50' to C1 In 2:50' to C2 In 3:50' to C3 (stopped 15 to 20m at C3, a stop included in total time) In 5:32'8'' from BC to the top Only Russell Brice in 1995 and Jorge Egocheaga in 2011 had reached similar climb rate standards in the past (respectively 3:20' from 5200m to the top; 5:28' from 4900m to the top). Cazzanelli considers his BC to C1 not to be a good time, since he started with too many clothes (feared to be cold, so had taken too much clothing, was “mouillé de chaud”). On the opposite his descent time from summit to C3 was very fast: 18 min. After the 4:30 long stop at C3 for the rescue, needed 2:17' from C3 to BC. His total descent absolute time is 2:34'52'' (not counting as a proper speed descent record). Favre started at 3:30 am from the same place in base camp, needing 7:30 for his speed ascent from BC to summit. Bovard and Perruquet reached the top 15 min before Favre (both stayed for a while on top, then started to descend before the arrival of Favre and Cazzanelli). Cazzanelli reached the top 1 hour after Favre, staying maximum 10 min on top. On descent, the Italians (All 4?) helped Mingma David Sherpa team (Nims Dai) with the rescue of an Iranian female climber. The latter showing signs of a full edema, couldn't walk, sleeping all time. Put her on a maximum oxygen flow for 1 hour, then she was feeling a bit better. As a mountain guide and rescuer himself, Cazzanelli felt shocked by the Sherpas' behaviour, lacking of professionalism and responsibility: as himself was spending money in satellite phone calls, Sherpas were laughing. In KTM, Cazzanelli even had troubles with the Iranian climber's lawyer, regarding pictures he had published on Facebook regarding the rescue. In total, the Italians stayed 4:30 at C3 for help in this rescue.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Seven Summit Treks
Commercial Route True
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference True
Primary ID TKPO21302
Checksum 2464611
Year 2021
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Emrik Favre M 1988 Italy Leader Ayas, Aosta, Italy Ski instructor & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Roger Bovard M 1995 Italy Climber Valgrisenche, Aosta, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Francois (Franz) Cazzanelli M 1990 Italy Climber Valtournenche, Aosta, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jerome Perruquet M 1997 Italy Climber Valtournenche, Aosta, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.