Ama Dablam | 2021 SW Ridge

A Italy expedition to Ama Dablam in 2021 via SW Ridge, led by Giampaolo Corona. Summit reached on 28th April 2021. 17 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 10541
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD21101
Peak ID AMAD
Year 2021
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Giampaolo Corona
Sponsor Seven Summit Treks International Ama Dablam Expedition 2021
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Ecuador, Finland, Germany, India, Iraq, Israel, Jordan, Kenya, Kyrgyz Republic, Nepal, Norway, Romania, Russia
Approach -
Basecamp Date -
Summit Date 2021-04-28
Summit Time 1145
Summit Days 0
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6814
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 16
Summit Members 8
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites Smt(28-30/04)
Route Notes Report from Giampaolo Corona (7 May 2021): BC(19/04,4600m),C1(25/04,5800m),Smt(29/04 Climbed alone. Left C1 at 3:30 am, summited at 11:45 am, stayed 1 hour, then descended to C1 arriving at 6:00 pm. Bad weather during last part of ascent and in descent. Left BC on 4 May. Also climbed Lobuche East. Report from James Muhia (3 May 2021): BC(27/04,4600m),C1(28/04,5600m),Smt(29/04),C2(29/04,5900m) Climbed alone from C1 (Sherpa stayed in C1). Left C1 at 3:15 am, summited at 4:15 pm, stayed 10 minutes, then descended to C2 arriving at 11:45 pm. Heavy snow in afternoon. From Muhia's Facebook post: THE MOST INTENSE 30 MINUTES of the entire Ama Dablam experience. BACKGROUND: Ama Dablam is not your everyday mountain. It's rated 5D in technical difficulty; with steep and vertical mixed rock, ice and snow climbing. When I decided to push for the summit from camp 1, my climbing Sherpa was not in full agreement because of the risks of a long day/exposure. All things considered (especially the weather forecast), this was my best chance to get to the summit and I assumed all the risks. I was not worried about acclimatization since I had been running on top of Kilimanjaro barely a week earlier. The day was long alright, with a 4:15 pm summit. Most of the decent would be in darkness; alone. After descending afew meters, I dropped/lost my abseiling/belay device (ATC). I had a figure 8 which I continued to use to descend slowly, until I got stuck mid-rope, on what seemed like an overhang. I tried to give weight and tag on the device but I couldn't move an inch. Maybe because the rope was frozen or because the rope was not going straight down but a bit horizontal to a sort of a traverse. I tried to swing to get hold of a rock. Nothing. After about 10 minutes I was exhausted. I panicked. I screamed. Then I calmed down. I let go of the rope and I was just hanging suspended upside down by the harness. I felt a strange calmness and warmth and I though maybe I could hang up there until morning and hope the 2 guys I had left at camp 3 will find me on their way down in the morning. As I hang there I was not worried. I knew there was a way out, I just couldn't figure it out yet. I reached inside the inner breast pocket of my jacket to get out my phone to record a message. Instead, I pulled out a photo of my daughter (I always carry my kids photos on these expeditions. They remind me I need to get back. Safely). They say fathers and daughters have a special bond. I agree. As I stared and smiled at her face I remembered I had a jumar/ascender and immediately I knew what I needed to do. It would be exhausting and extremely painful, but it got me to camp 2. Report from Katrin Glashauser (2 May 2021): BC(17/04,4600m),C1(24/04,5500m),C2(28/04,5900m),xxx(29/04,6400m) Team of Glashauser (with Jangbu Sherpa), Stregell (with Khungbu Sherpa), and Elisa Barba (with another Sherpa) reached 6400m on 29 April, then turned back due bad weather. Weather was OK (only partly cloudy) until 7:00 am. Then heavy snowstorm started at ~9.00 am and forced the expedition team to turn back to C2, where Glashauser and Strengell spent the night, whereas Barba went back to basecamp during the same day. Machado quit due to exhaustion before C2 at 550mm on 29 Apr and went back to basecamp due to exhaustion. Team left BC 1 May.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Seven Summit Treks
Commercial Route True
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2464594
Year 2021
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

17 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Giampaolo Corona M 1973 Italy Leader Mezzano, Trento, Italy Alpine guide & alpine rescue instructor Details Other expeditions
Marinica Amarinei M 1962 Romania Climber Bicazu Ardelean, Romania Forestry engineer Details Other expeditions
Duaa Abbas Saleh Awabed F 1992 Iraq Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Ahmad Mohammad Mousa Bani-Hani M 1989 Jordan Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Elisa Marcela Barba Izurieta F 1980 Ecuador Climber Quito, Ecuador Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Debasish Biswas M 1971 India Climber Kolkata (Calcutta), India Income tax department, government service of India Details Other expeditions
Andrei Erokhin M 1984 Kyrgyz Republic Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Katrin Glashauser F 1986 Germany Climber Unterwoessen, Germany Marketing manager Details Other expeditions
Juan Carlos Machado Puertas M 1973 Ecuador Climber Quito, Ecuador Attorney Details Other expeditions
James Mungai Muhia M 1982 Kenya Climber Dubai, UAE Businessman Details Other expeditions
Evgeny Polyakov M 1975 Israel Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Elisa Roetterud F 1979 Norway Climber Oslo, Norway Story teller for outdoor company Norrona Details Other expeditions
Pasang Kaji Sherpa M 1993 Nepal Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Boris Slobodyanyuk M 1982 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Physician (surgeon) Details Other expeditions
Paula Birgitta Strengell F 1968 Finland Climber Helsinki, Finland Physician Details Other expeditions
Andrei Tatarov M 1983 Russia Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Chhepal Sherpa M 1982 Nepal H-A Worker Patle-2, Okhaldhunga - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD21101 - - http://www.mountainblog.it/redazionale/giampaolo-corona-in-cima-allama-dablam-6-812-m/ - - -
AMAD21101 - - https://grivel.com/blogs/grivel-stories/expeditions-at-the-time-of-covid-by-giampaolo-corona - - -
AMAD21101 - - https://www.telegraphindia.com/culture/danger-men-at-work/cid/1816436 - - -
AMAD21101 - - https://www.facebook.com/groups/365274220487757/permalink/1446981408983694 - - -