Ama Dablam | 2015 SW Ridge

A Ireland expedition to Ama Dablam in 2015 via SW Ridge, led by Cian O'Brolchain. Summit reached on 11th November 2015. 16 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 8999
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD15314
Peak ID AMAD
Year 2015
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Ireland
Leaders Cian O'Brolchain
Sponsor Ascent Himalayas Ama Dablam Expedition 2015
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Canada, France, Norway, UK
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2015-11-05
Summit Date 2015-11-11
Summit Time -
Summit Days 6
Total Days 19
Termination Date 2015-11-24
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6814
Traverse True
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 7
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 7
Summit Hired 5
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(05/11,4700m),C1(07/11,5700m),C2(10/11,6100m),Smt(11/11); BC(10/11,4570m),C1(14/11,5700m),C2(15/11,6080m),Smt(21/11)
Route Notes From Ascent Himalayas Facebook posts: 21 Nov 2015 All our members and Sherpas made the 100% successful summit to Mt Ama Dablam today and they are heading down to Camp 2. Congratulations to Une Prestholt (Norway), John Burke (Ireland), Cian O'Brolchain (Ireland), Gavan Henningan (Ireland), Pasang Tenzing Sherpa, Tsering Pemba Sherpa, Dawa Tashi Sherpa & Furtemba Sherpa. 19 Nov 2015 Congratulations to Simon Thomasson (UK), Pasang tenzing and Narendra Shahi for making the successful summit of Mt Ama Dablam and Eric Jamet has to returned back because of his health problem, they are on the way to Camp 2 and other member Cian, John, Gavan and Une are heading to Camp 1 today and will be going to Camp 2 tomorrow and summit on 21st Nov. 18 Nov 2015 Ascent Himalayas Ama Dablam Expedition 2015: Our member Eric Jamet & Simon Thomasson are on the way to Camp 2 and their plan is to summit tomorrow and other team members (Une, Cian, Gavan, John) are at base camp for rest and will be heading to Camp 1 tomorrow and plan to summit on 21st Nov so we would like to wish them best of luck for the successful summit. 11 Nov 2015 Dean Carriere (Canada), Tsering Pemba Sherpa (Climbing Sherpa) also made the summit of Mt Ama Dablam and they are on their way back and also Ascent Himalayas Island Peak Climbing Team also made the summit yesterday and they are on the way to pangboche today. Congratulations to Une Prestholt (Norway) Eric Jamet (France) Simon Thomasson (UK) Eystein Grusd (Norway) Dean Carriere (Canada) Pasang Tenzing Sherpa (Climbing Guide) Narendra Shahi (Climbing Sherpa) Nima Gyalzen Sherpa (Climbing Sherpa) Tsering Pemba Sherpa (Climbing Sherpa) Dawa Tashi Sherpa (Climbing Sherpa) 11 Nov 2015 After the successful Manaslu and first ascent of Mt Beding Go once again Ascent Himalayas Mt Ama Dablam Expedition made the successful summit this morning. We would like to congratulate Mr Eystein Grusd (Norway) and Dawa Tashi Sherpa for the successful summit, Dean and Tsering are on the way to summit and rest team are acclamatizing at Island Peak. From Facebook entry (The Clare Crusade on Ama Dablam 2015) by John Burke [Subgroup with Ascent Himalayas team] 01 Dec 2015 Without doubt the heroes of the mountains, the Sherpas, relentlessly supporting people like us in fulfilling our dreams. Here Cian, Gavan and I, along with Pasang and Furtemba celebrate a team on the top, Tsering volunteered to take the pic. Thanks for delivering us safely up and down and for your energy, care, and skills throughout the entire expedition. 30 Nov 2015 We were prepared for cold weather, we hoped it wouldnt be any colder than expected, the only factor that could catch us out was wind, it claimed many fingers and toes here before. But Mingma had carefully studied forecasts and thankfully they were accurate, it probably didn't drop below -20/25, and our triple sock and glove system, and insulated boots, along with multiple clothing layers, and outer down layer, ensured we remained safe from the elements. The summit night was a slow start, mainly contributed to by some slow spanish climbers ahead of us, they were overly cautious, and refused to let us share ropes and pass them, heated exchanges ensured, we were aware that their pace would not only jeopradise their attempt at the summit, but all of ours also, along with our safety, thankfully at about 4am, they allowed us to pass, and they retreated off the mountain, much and all as this was disappointing for them, it seemed like the right decision. By sunrise i was already feeling tired, but the sun can give the lift needed, well that and the cafeine energy gels, straight out of camp 2 we were on technical rock and ice, made even more difficult by falling ice and rock from overhead, Tsering was proficent in his work, and we never delayed, pace helped keep us warm and focused also. Our first proper break was taken at camp 3, a place we dont stay due to the overhanging Ice Serac which wiped out many lives there in the past, we took about 15 mins at about 11am, and fuled up as much as possible, warm tea, energy bars, water. After camp 3 the route was straightforward, see image attached, we are the dots on the right of the image making our way up the steep snow and ice. It was a relentless slog of two steps, 5/10 breaths, as the cold dry are sucked the moisture from your mouth and lungs, it felt a lot safer there than on previous parts, but it was tough on the body, the heart was probably sitting on 160bpm for most the day, but you could really feel it here. At about 1pm, I fell over the top knowing it was over! We all got some photos, and the three Irish lads, Myself, Cian, and Gavan, got some group pics, and all shared in the emotion of achieving this summit. The Sherpas were notably satisfied also, celebrating and photographing also. From here it was all down hill! but on Ama Dablam, this presents many challenges, being so technical the brain is as rattled as the body, and this is where mistakes happen, a continious descent of absails, Sherpa rappels, down-climbing, saw us edge down the mountain, we were exhausted by the time darkness set in again, and abseiling off fixed rope that in the abyss, certainly kept the pressure on to the very end, the Sherpa team kept watchful eye over us, never loosing focus despite the long day, on the way down more rock gets knocked off, as people lose concentration, so its important to get out of the dodgy spots fast. At about 8pm we landed back into camp 2, out of the worst of danger, but still with more work to do the following day, a 20-hr day had certainly ensured we appreciated the work for a summit of Ama Dablam, but it had also left us shattered. 30 Nov 2015 The technical challenges of clmbing Ama Dablam were ever present, outside of a tough slog, but strightforward climb to Camp 1, from then onwards, the mountain rewards a climber with some amazing rock climbs, vertical Ice Climbs, steep snow fields, and plenty of abseils. The main summit push started on the 19th with the movement to Camp 1, it was vital to manage the heart rate on this trip to camp 1, as there was a lot more to follow, but it was a challenging trip all the same, carrying extra weight, and the psychological weight of the coming days. When we arrived at Camp 1 mid-afternoon, we continued the process of hydration with some noodle soup, and more melted snow delivering us some warm sweet tea. By 5pm, it was getting dark and the night chill quickly moves in up high, and confines you to the tent. Here an iPod with some relaxing music, aided the recovery process, and at about 7pm, the Sherpas droped in some warm food, in the form of ration pack meals, and we filled our water bottles once again. after that it was time for sleep, as much as we could get sleeping so high it was always a challenge, not the mention the -15c. In the morning we packed our move to camp 2, this time again it seemed so much harder, once you leave camp 1 its straight on to technical clmbing, with airy traverses, hanging on fixed ropes where you must place full trust in them, we were all wearing our full summit boots now, so the felxibity and sensitivity of these is a lot more limited than the regular boots also, trying not to overgrip, or over work any part of the body, the heart was still pounding, between the high altitude reduced oxygen levels, and the sheer drops on so many sections. The final part to this day was the Yellow tower, althogh I had gained the confidence on this from a previous asscent, it still tested me to the max, the boots and pack certainly made it a different climb. You start the climb by crossing out over some rocky outcrops, with a 2km vertical drop, once the climb on this starts, you are soon under instruction to swing right, meaning you pendulum over the air to a new section more climbable, it continues vertical with limited foot and hand holds for about 20mtrs, it gets every muscle and nerve working at full tilt! From the top of the Yellow tower our tent was only 10 mins, Camp 2 is probably the most spectcacular camp site in the world, and was part of the original appeal of this moutain, up close it is a different story, years of build up of human waste, has left it polluted and infectious, I had heard first hand the reports of this, and was very conscious not to jeopardize my summit attempt by picking up infection, the evidence of this was everywhere, simply at night people could not wander for the toilet, so just outside the tent had to do. We settled into Camp 2 and checked and prepared gear, we later got instructions from the Sherpas that summit push was to commence at midnight, and Tsering was to be my Sherpa, a strong and very experienced climber, I knew I was in safe hands. We dined on more noodle soup, digestive biscuits, and sweet tea, and rested for the evening, nodding off when nerves would allow. Soon enough we were on the move again, this time was the big day, beyond this point we knew we had 1 chance to make the summit, we had to be tuned in, and proficient, any mistake in prep, or equipement, would see us descending and retreating for another attempt, another year. 24 Nov 2015 Tents pitched on the side of a mountain brought their own challenges, including making sure you don't roll over in your sleep! The Sherpa team ensured the white snow if possible was only used to melt for water and for cooking, it's hard to sustain an appetite at altitude but at the same time fuel is required to push up or down the mountain further. Here Furtemba and Norin take shelter while preparing noodle soup for the team, meals were eaten during daylight hours when possible, as it was too difficult and cold to do anything outside of these, once it got dark ideally you needed to be in your tent and sleeping bag. -15/20 or so isn't ideal for wandering around, let alone the hazards of the location. A pee-bottle served two purposes of avoiding late night walks, and acting as a hot water bottle, consuming 3-4 ltrs of water a day to support acclimatisation needed solutions for the tent environment! 24 Nov 2015 Thanks so much for all the messages of support, it was an amazing experience, while also testing me to the limit. I am now on the way out with the team staying tonight in Namche Bazar, I managed to collect some great shots and will share them and they will hopefully give a feel for this expedition. Here during the puja I received the blessing of ashes and cord neck chain after the blessing of our equipment, the emphasis on religion and the significance to the Sherpas of praying for a safe climb was always significant, before any movement up the mountain time would be spent at the altar, and on summit night some of the team at base camp arose at 1am to light a fire at the altar again. The entire experience of any of these events at the altar under the shadows of Ama Dablam certainly captured our imiginations and emotions. We know the danger the Sherpa team face and yet our team had so much experience virtually unscathed we could only hope for the same and join in with their traditions! 21 Nov 2015 The tricolour proudly raised on the summit...John has safely arrived at Camp 2 after 3 days on what he describes as an "animal of a mountain"...Massive congratulations are in order! 21 Nov 2015 At approx 7am this morning we got word of John's successful summit attempt from Ama Dablam's peak (6812m). Waiting on news of a safe descent now. Congratulations John. Such a fantastic achievement so far. More updates to follow. An incredibly proud but relieved, Aoibhín 15 Nov 2015 Today the team made it to Camp 2 (6080m). They dropped off some gear and acclimatised further before heading back to Base Camp. They tackled the infamous Yellow Tower successfully...Two tough days climbing and now time to rest and prepare for a summit push this week. Fingers crossed...all going well. 14 Nov 2015 The team have made it safely to Camp 1 today. John also managed to get signal briefly to send the below image of tonight's abode! It was a tough day but the team are feeling ok despite altitude (5700m). Tomorrow they set out for Camp 2. Keep it going lads! 13 Nov 2015 Today saw the Puja ceremony...the Lama came from Pangboche to bless the climbing equipment as the Sherpas made offerings and burned incense. Tomorrow marks day one on Ama Dablam as the team climb to Camp One...stay the night and climb to Camp Two Sunday. 11 Nov 2015 Sat phone update...all well at base camp today...the team had a walk to 5000m and are acclimatising well. It's late in the season and there are mixed reports and results from other expeditions on Ama Dablam so far this year but the Sherpas are happy that the condition of the mountain itself is good and tomorrow sees another preparation day on the ice. 10 Nov 2015 Update via Sat Phone...the team have all arrived on base camp (4570m) and are feeling good. They will settle in there for a day or two preparing for the big fella soon! Hopefully they will have wifi in a couple of days but for now here's an idea of tonight's dwelling!
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Ascent Himalayas
Commercial Route True
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2462143
Year 2015
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

16 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Denis Charles Autier M 1959 France Climber Uccle, Belgium Ballet services company manager Details Other expeditions
Dean Christopher Carriere M 1965 Canada Climber Ile des Chenes, Manitoba Self-employed construction worker Details Other expeditions
Eystein Grusd M 1977 Norway Climber Oslo, Norway - Details Other expeditions
Eric Noel Julien Jamet M 1988 France Climber Savoie, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Une Kristin Groenstein Prestholt F 1976 Norway Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Simon Thomasson M 1968 UK Climber Farnborough, Hampshire, England Telecommunications engineer Details Other expeditions
Tshering Pemba Sherpa M 1985 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Tenzing Sherpa M 1984 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Narendra Shahi M 1982 Nepal H-A Worker Bhalayakharka-6, Lamjung - Details Other expeditions
Dawa Tashi Sherpa M 1987 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Cian O'Brolchain M 1980 Ireland Leader Dublin, Ireland Tennis coach Details Other expeditions
John Desmond Burke M 1978 Ireland Climber Miltown Malbay, Clare, Ireland - Details Other expeditions
Gavan John Paul Hennigan M 1981 Ireland Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Phurba Temba (Furtemba) Sherpa M 1984 Nepal H-A Worker Simigaon, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Mingma Tshering/Tsiri Sherpa M 1970 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Nima Tashi Sherpa M 1960 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD15314 - - https://www.facebook.com/AmaDablam15/ - - -
AMAD15314 - - https://www.facebook.com/AscentHimalayasTreksExpeditionPLtd/ - - -
AMAD15314 - - https://www.facebook.com/amadablamexpedition2015/ - - -