Ama Dablam | 2015 S Ridge up, SE Ridge down

A France expedition to Ama Dablam in 2015 via S Ridge up, SE Ridge down, led by Sebastien Rougegre. Summit reached on 25th October 2015. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 8949
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD15306
Peak ID AMAD
Year 2015
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge up, SE Ridge down
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Sebastien Rougegre
Sponsor Ama Dablam South Ridge French Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date 2015-10-12
Summit Date 2015-10-25
Summit Time 1030
Summit Days 13
Total Days 14
Termination Date 2015-10-26
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6814
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(12/10,4600m),ABC(22/10,5600m),C1(23/10,6200m),C2(24/10,6600m),Smt(25/10)
Route Notes BC 12/10 4600m ABC 22/10 5600m C1 23/10 6200m C2 24/10 6600m Smt 25/10 by all members. Acclimatization on the SW Ridge normal route of Ama Dablam. Slept at ABC (5400m) on the 18 Oct, then the day after at C1 (5850m). First alpine-style ascent of the South Ridge from 22 Oct to 25 Oct as follows: 22 Oct: group went to sleep afoot of the ridge at 5600m. 23 Oct on first day, the girls took the lead through some beautiful granite-like looking rock (found some crystals caves) pitches finding quite a few remnants old fixed ropes, this until Damien took the lead for the last 4 pitches. One notable pitch around 6100m in mushroom ice up to 4+/5 ice grade (some pitons for protection). Boys had some pictures from the previous 2005 Slovenian alpine-style attempt of the ridge showing a perfect ice cave around 6200m where they cold have slept all 4 together this time! But once arrived there the ice cave didn't exist anymore, so they had to push further up to 6300m to find a bivouac place to install their tents. Sebastien and Fleur slept seated, Damien and Fanny above them hardly laying down (Fanny fell during the night, was unfortunately hooked to the belay). Little snow fall during that evening. 24 Oct on second day, the boys with their heavy bags alternately took the lead. First pitch through an exposed straight-side traverse, then pitches through a 250m high 45-degree steep couloir (slightly steeper at the end). Then Sebastien led first through the exit ice ramp with a first pitch at 70/75 degrees, then Damien in a 60-degree bad ice one. During that section, they could again find some other remnants of old fixed ropes. Eventually Damien led through a 3 ice flutes precarious section (however with good ice for protection in the holes between it) before the proper exit presenting itself as an ice fall with difficulties up to 90 degrees on a very few meters (remnants of old fixed rope on the right side of it fixed to a rock pinnacle), both these sections representing an overall 80m pitch. On top of it at 6600m had a cold windy (SW direction) bivouac on the SW ridge. 25 Oct: start at 7:30 am from C2, summit at 10:30 am in perfect conditions (no wind, clear sky). Here they met with an Austrian guide. Then they went down the SW Ridge back to base camp at 6 pm. On way down, were shocked to see bunch of remnant fixed ropes and lack of security of new one fixed anarchically under ultimate responsibility of foreign agencies. Equipped themselves their own belay of abseils. French grade for the route is TD+ with quite continuous difficulties up to IV rock and ice 5, with some delicate ice flute mushroom section. Overall impression: "little harder than the Brown Patey route of Aiguille sans nom in Massif du Mont Blanc which is a gentle TD+". Possible variant to the final ramp by an upper one may be taken by Jeff Lowe during his solo ascent? Exact very final part of the South Ridge unclimbed and seeming extremely difficult.
Accidents Slight frostbite of right-hand index finger of Damien Tomasi
Achievement 1st alpine style ascent of 'Lagunak' South Ridge of Ama Dablam
Agency Loben Expeditions
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2462126
Year 2015
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s ridge up, se ridge down

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Fleur L. A. J. Fouque F 1986 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Sebastien Philippe Max Rougegre M 1980 France/Switzerland Leader Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Fanny Louise Schmutz F 1987 France Climber Savoie, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Damien Jean Tomasi M 1986 France Climber Savoie, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD15306 AAJ Popier, Rodolphe - - 90:347 (2016) -
AMAD15306 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213852/Ama-Dablam-Lagunak-Ridge-First-Alpine-Style-Ascent - - -