Ama Dablam | 2013 SW Ridge

A UK expedition to Ama Dablam in 2013 via SW Ridge, led by Adrian Ballinger. Summit reached on 15th November 2013. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 8272
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD13327
Peak ID AMAD
Year 2013
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Adrian Ballinger
Sponsor Alpenglow Ama Dablam Expedition 2013
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries USA
Approach Namche->Machermo->Gokyo->Cho La
Basecamp Date 2013-10-28
Summit Date 2013-11-15
Summit Time 1400
Summit Days 18
Total Days 20
Termination Date 2013-11-17
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6814
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 3
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(28/10,4600m),C1(02/11,5700m),C2(14/11,6000m),Smt(15/11)
Route Notes BC 28 Oct 4600m C1 02 Nov 5700m C2 15 Nov 6000m (members) Smt 15 Nov at 2 pm by rope-fixing Sherpas Dorji Sonam, Tenzing Gyalzen, Pasang Rinji Smt 16 Nov by Harrington and Tenzing Gyalzen (again) at 8:37 am, Ballinger, Penner and Pasang Rinji (again) at 8:52 am, Morrison at 9:17 am and Beidleman at 9:52 am. The 16 Nov team left C2 in about 30 km/h winds at 3 am. It was a very clear day. They were only people on the summit and in fact the first commercial team that summited that season. A small Slovenian team summited later the same day. They stayed about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to BC, where they arrived at 7 pm. Jurek reached C2 on 3 November, but abandoned her climb due to fatigue. Team left BC on 17 Nov by helicopter. Fixed rope: from Grey Tower (from the Mushroom Ridge to C2.7, and to the summit) Sherpas: Dorje Sonam Gyalzen, Phortse, 24/05/1981 Pasang Rinji, Phortse, 18/01/1977 Tenzing Gyalzen, Phortse, 02/07/1991 Ballinger by email: All previous teams stopped at an exposed section of the Mushroom Ridge. Our team felt comfortable fixing this section of the ridge (combined guide and Sherpa effort) and after this the route from C2.7 up was in amazing condition. Overall the big October snowstorm made the route better and safer than in previous years. Only the Mushroom Ridge cornices were more difficult or dangerous than normal.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2461370
Year 2013
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Adrian John Ballinger M 1976 UK Leader Olympic Valley, California Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Neal Jay Beidleman M 1959 USA Climber Aspen, Colorado Engineer Details Other expeditions
Emily Anne Harrington F 1986 USA Climber Olympic Valley, California Professional alpinist Details Other expeditions
Jennifer Lee (Jenny) Jurek F 1976 USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Fashion designer Details Other expeditions
James White Morrison M 1974 USA Climber Truckee, California Builder Details Other expeditions
Gregory Boyd (Greg) Penner M 1969 USA Climber Atherton, California Venture capitalist Details Other expeditions
Dorje Sonam Gyalzen Sherpa M 1981 Nepal H-A Worker Phortse, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Tenzing Gyalzen Sherpa M 1991 Nepal H-A Worker Phortse, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Rinji Sherpa M 1977 Nepal H-A Worker Phortse, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD13327 - - http://www.alpenglowexpeditions.com/blog/3 - - -