Ama Dablam | 2013 E Face (new rte)

A S Korea expedition to Ama Dablam in 2013 via E Face (new rte), led by Yoo Hak-Jae. Summit reached on 24th October 2013. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 8268
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD13323
Peak ID AMAD
Year 2013
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Face (new rte)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality S Korea
Leaders Yoo Hak-Jae
Sponsor Korean Ama Dablam East Face Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
Basecamp Date 2013-10-12
Summit Date 2013-10-24
Summit Time -
Summit Days 12
Total Days 14
Termination Date 2013-10-26
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6300m due to soft snow conditions
High Point (m) 6300
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(12/10,5060m),Biv1(22/10,5750m),Biv2(23/10,6125m),Biv3(24/10,6234m),xxx(24/10)
Route Notes The team chose a new line on the right of the main corridor located in the center of the East Face, to be sheltered from the seracs, ice and rocks avalanches. (Central corridor low section is 65-degrees steep, then middle section between 60 degrees and 70 degrees, then the upper section is 80-degrees steep up to 85 degrees). On the 24 Oct Yoo Hak-Jae and his teammates reached bivouac 3, after climbing in correct mixed ground conditions. From there Yoo Hak-Jae tried to climb alone up to 6300m, where he was blocked by the soft snow conditions in a steeper ground; trying to reach the proper rock, he could only disappear in the snow (up to right under the shoulders), finding no anchors at all. His goal was to join on the right of the face the shoulder located high on the North Ridge, this to avoid the mushrooms of the upper East Face and so gain the summit by the easier end of the North Ridge. On the 25 October, all 3 members went down to their base camp in 12 abseils (with 2 100m of length Kevlar ropes of 8mm) According to them, snow conditions are the key problem to climb via this East Face, which otherwise wouldn't be too difficult, mostly in mixed ground (with good protections in the rock), but dangerous. Mostly the central main corridor, even easier, has to be avoided because of a major avalanche exposure.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Nepal Climbing Professionals
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2461348
Year 2013
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e face (new rte)

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Dong-Seok Shin M 1965 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Manages a convenience store Details Other expeditions
Hak-Jae Yoo M 1961 S Korea Leader Seoul, S Korea Technical advisor to FILA Sports Details Other expeditions
Young-Jik Yoo M 1973 S Korea Climber Daegu (Taegu), S Korea Furniture engineer Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD13323 KAN - - - 7:14 (2013) -