Ama Dablam | 2012 SW Ridge

A France expedition to Ama Dablam in 2012 via SW Ridge, led by Jacques Marmet. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 7944
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD12351
Peak ID AMAD
Year 2012
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Jacques Marmet
Sponsor -
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date -
Summit Date -
Summit Time -
Summit Days 0
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 8
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6200m due to equipment problems
High Point (m) 6200
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 1
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC,C1,C2,xxx(6200m)
Route Notes Translated from website of Jacques Marmet by Rodolphe Popier: http://www.jacques-marmet.fr/index.php?p=seeactu&idac=69 This third expedition on this gorgeous mountain is half a success. I aimed to complete two challenges indeed: First one was to establish a speed record ascent for the peak. This one is a complete success as from Kathmandu to the summit push I only needed 9 days (approach march/trekking included) whereas 18 days are normally necessary for the same program. I even managed to shorten the program I planned for myself, knowing to reduce at maximum the expedition time on a 7000er without getting AMS sickness and without using any medicine. Second one was to reach the top. I organized this expedition alone with my friend Phurba Sherpa. For budget reasons, I had to participate to the carrying of the gear: tent, technical gear, gas, food, sleeping bag, etc., meaning Phurba was carrying 40 kg and me 20 kg. Until C1 we asked to our basecamp cook to help with carrying part of the gear. Day after our arrival to C1, we went straight to C2. Day after I took a day rest, whereas Phurba made a round trip to C1 to pick up some gear remnants left there. Then we preferred not using C3, but to attempt to reach the summit straight from C2, in alpine style, with a very light bag for Phurba and only my camelbag for me with some proteins bars. We started at 1 am the day after for the top, but after 1 hour, the unexpected grain of sand went into the wheels of our machine: my headlamp collapsed, catching fire likely due to a shortcircuit? Trapped in a delicate mixed section within the night, without any moon =light, it was impossible to continue, so we instead turned back, renouncing to the summit a priori within reach!
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Makalu Adventure?
Commercial Route True
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 4757
Year 2012
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jacques Philippe Marmet M 1956 France Leader Strasbourg, Bas-Rhin, France Optician Details Other expeditions
Phurba Wangchhu Sherpa M 1975 Nepal H-A Worker Waku-9, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD12351 - - http://www.jacques-marmet.fr/index.php?p=seeactu&idac=69 - - -