Ama Dablam | 2011 SW Ridge

A USA expedition to Ama Dablam in 2011 via SW Ridge, led by Eric Larson. Summit reached on 25th October 2011. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 7653
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD11330
Peak ID AMAD
Year 2011
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Eric Larson
Sponsor -
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lukla->Namche->Chhukung->Lobuche->Pangboche->Ama Dablam BC
Basecamp Date 2011-10-18
Summit Date 2011-10-25
Summit Time 1000
Summit Days 7
Total Days 8
Termination Date 2011-10-26
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6814
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Kongmatse and Pokalde
Campsites BC(10/18,4600m),C1(19/10,5750m),C2(24/10,6300m),Smt(25/10)
Route Notes Larson and Hyland started from C2 at 3 am. They arrived C3 arond 7 am. Both got to the top at 10:30 am, stayed on summit for half an hour. They descended to C2 at 2:30 pm and continued to C1 where they arrived at 5:30 pm and spent night there. Next day on 26 Oct they went down to Pangboche. David Hyland (email) - 28 Nov 2012 (1) Our team consisted of just the two of us, myself and Eric Larson. Eric is a professional guide (IFMGA) who has previously attempted and summited Ama Dablam, as well as Cho Oyu, and I was his client. (2) Here is our itinerary: BC arrival date was 10/18/11 and our BC departure date was 10/26/11. 10/08/11 -- flight from Kathmandu to Lukla 10/08/11 -- trek from Lukla to Phakding 10/09/11 -- trek from Phakding to Namche 10/10/11 -- day hike from Namche to Khumjung/Khunde and return to Namche 10/11/11 -- trek from Namche to Pangboche 10/12/11 -- trek from Pangboche to Chhukung 10/13/11 -- trek from Chhukung to High Camp in the basin just to the east of Kongma-La Pass (approx 17,400 ft) 10/14/11 -- climb and summit Kongma-Tse (19,094 ft) 10/15/11 -- climb and summit Pokalde (19,049 ft) 10/15/11 -- trek from High Camp to Lobuche 10/16/11 -- trek from Lobuche to Pangboche 10/17/11 -- rest day in Pangboche 10/18/11 -- trek from Pangboche to Ama Dablam BC 10/19/11 -- ascend from BC to Camp 1 10/20/11 -- ascend from Camp 1 to mid-point between Camps 1 and 2 and return to Camp 1 10/21/11 -- descend from Camp 1 to BC 10/22/11 -- rest day in BC 10/23/11 -- ascend to Camp 1 10/24/11 -- ascend to Camp 2 10/25/11 -- ascend from Camp 2 to summit and descend to Camp 1 2:15 am -- woke up 3:30 am -- depart Camp 2 6:30-7:00 am (approximate time) -- arrive Camp 3 for 5-10 minute food/water break 10:00 am -- arrive summit 10:30 am -- depart summit 2:30 pm -- arrive Camp 2 3:30 pm -- depart Camp 2 5:00 pm -- arrive Camp 1 (Eric Larson) 6:00 pm -- arrive Camp 1 (David Hyland) 10/26/11 -- descend from Camp 1 to BC and continue descent to Pangboche 10/27/11 -- rest day in Pangboche 10/28/11 -- trek from Pangboche to Namche 10/29/11 -- trek from Namche to Lukla 10/30/11 -- flight from Lukla to Kathmandu Attached below you will find an altitude profile chart of our expedition. (3) We summited Ama Dablam on Oct 25, 2011, at 10:00 am. We spent 30 minutes on the summit and then began our descent at 10:30 am. (4) We did not have any Sherpa with us. We hired two porters to carry gear from Lukla to Namche. From there we used one porter to carry our climbing gear to Pangboche and then again on up to Ama Dablam BC. After we summited a porter then carried our gear from BC down to Pangboche and then from Pangboche back down to Lukla. I'm not sure if we used one or two porters for the outbound carry. I do not know their names. (5) There were no real notable details. Overall, the trip went very smoothly. To facilitate our climbing speed and help ensure our success, we tried to stay light. For instance, we borrowed a tent at Camp 2, so we did not need to carry nor set up a tent above Camp 1. And on our summit day Eric carried a small pack and I carried no pack. In terms of health, we faired well. Of course, we eventually got the "Khumbu cough," and I also picked up a cold from either a Taiwanese trekker or a group of Italian doctors in Pangboche. Neither of us felt any ill effects from the altitude and neither of us had any gastrointestinal issues. Also, the weather was quite cooperative. Even the one snowfall event, on Oct 20-21, coincided with our descent back to base camp for a rest day, so it proved to be no inconvenience whatsoever. We heard that on our summit day the winds were forecast to be 50 mph, but that proved to not be the case. On our summit day the winds were light and the sun was bright.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2460571
Year 2011
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Eric Allen Larson M 1973 USA Leader Telluride, Colorado Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
David C. Hyland M 1960 USA Climber Fairview, Pennsylvania College professor Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD11330 - - http://davidchyland.blogspot.com/2011_10_01_archive.html - - -