Ama Dablam | 2010 SW Ridge (to 6000m)

A Brazil expedition to Ama Dablam in 2010 via SW Ridge (to 6000m), led by Mauricio Clauzet. Summit reached on 4th November 2010. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 7135
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD10337
Peak ID AMAD
Year 2010
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge (to 6000m)
Route 2 N Face (to 5600m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Brazil
Leaders Mauricio Clauzet
Sponsor -
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2010-10-17
Summit Date 2010-11-04
Summit Time -
Summit Days 18
Total Days 20
Termination Date 2010-11-06
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6000m due to member illnesses and Santos not wanting to continue alone
High Point (m) 6000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(17/10,4500m),C1(24/10,5600m),C2(25/10,5800m),xxx(04/11,6000m)
Route Notes Three members reached C2 on 26 Oct. Clauzet and Wellner returned to BC next day due to illnesses and Santos waited for two days to try for summit with two Spaniards (Pallares and Mompel?). When Spaniards decided not to make the summit attempt, Santos also returned to BC not wanting to continue alone on an apparent difficult and dangerous route. In late October, the three Brazilians and the Dane Jacob Klaris-Jensen attempted the N Face (Santos and Klaris to try for the summit with Clauzet and Wellner in support). Santos and Klaris reached 5600m from their 5100m camp, but gave up due loose falling rock and the potential onset of bad weather. Mauricio Clauzet (email) - 3 Oct 2011 Reason for stopping summit push: Demotivated with the dirty, rubbish and sanitary conditions of Camp 1 and 2, as well as too many ropes everywhere and also old ropes left behind. Base camp also had rubbish around, even inside the stream where you take water. We don't like to climb in a place like that. Over crowded as well. No conditions to have only 7 tents spots in Camp 2 and more than 15 comercial expeditions with many members to climb. When we arrived in Camp 1 and 2, there were no more places to tents, but no people. All commercial expeditions saved places for their commercial members. The tents were there, but the clients haven't even arrived to BC. Second time we had been to Camp 2 it was smelling like a bad public toilet. Hard to get clean snow (with no feces and urine) to make water. I had also digestive system problem because of bad snow in high camps. Other comments: What people called "the crown", a huge serac hanging out from summit is there just because an uncountable set of old fixed ropes left behind over the years. In an attached picture you can see "the crown" with many old ropes appearing from it. People that had summited told us that there is a set of old ropes tensioned like guitar strings in a crevasse on the summit, holding "the crown." I'll never return to Ama Dablam, and maybe never to climb again in Nepal. Money hass been far more important than the mountain itself, the nature and the environment. This mountain is still beautifull from far away. When you look closer, it's ugly and dirty. Very bad.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Prestige Adventure
Commercial Route True
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2460170
Year 2010
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge (to 6000m)

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Mauricio Clauzet Ferraz de Mello M 1969 Brazil Leader Sao Paulo, Brazil Engineer Details Other expeditions
Marcelo (Bonga) Santos M 1971 Brazil Climber Curitiba, Brazil Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Alir Wellner M 1961 Brazil Climber Curitiba, Brazil Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD10337 - - http://www.amadablam2010.blogspot.com - - -