Ama Dablam | 2007 N Ridge (to 5847m)

A Russia expedition to Ama Dablam in 2007 via N Ridge (to 5847m), led by Leonid Butov. Summit reached on 18th October 2007. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 5847
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD07335
Peak ID AMAD
Year 2007
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Ridge (to 5847m)
Route 2 SW Ridge
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Russia
Leaders Leonid Butov
Sponsor Ama Dablam North Ridge Expedition 2007
Success 1 False
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries USA
Approach (see route notes)
Basecamp Date 2007-10-01
Summit Date 2007-10-18
Summit Time 1810
Summit Days 17
Total Days 19
Termination Date 2007-10-20
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6814
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 700
Total Members 5
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Island Peak up to 6050m only (lots of snow)
Campsites BC1(01/10,5080m),xxx(09/10,5847m);BC2(12/10,4600m),C1(13/10,5700m),C2(14/10,5950m),C3(16/10,6300m),Smt(18/10)
Route Notes Approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Dingboche->Ama Dablam BC->Chhukung->Island Peak BC Russian Ama Dablam (SW Ridge): On 18 Oct Boldyrev and Vorotnikova left C3 at 5:15 am; both reached the summit at 6:15 pm. Butov left C3 at 6:45 am, reached summit at 6:10 pm. Vorotnikov left C3 at 7 am and reached summit at 6:30 pm. All descended together to C3 between 8:30 to 9 pm. Slept at C3 and next day to BC. This is the only team who had summited on that day. Weather on summit was very windy and very cold. When the team arrived at C1 and C2, camps were occupied by Sherpas and they were not moving up due to snow conditions. The Butov team was allowed by Sherpas to use unoccupied tents at C1 and C2. Since the team was running out of time it worked hard to open up the route for C3 and to summit. There was lots of snow along the route and it took them 12 hours to reach the summit. Whereas on 19 Oct four people Canadians and Sherpas reached summit from C3 in four hours. There was occasional ice falling above C3 during the night on their way up and down. Members hardly had enough sleep at C3. The team brought back the final stretch of fixed rope to the summit to enable them to descend safely. Butov returned Kathmandu on 21 Oct and left same day. Boldyrev, Vorotnikov and Vorotnikova returned Kathmandu on 22 Oct. Boldyrev wants to leave Kathmandu as soon as possible. Vorotnikov couple will leave Kathmandu on 27 Oct. Menchenin suffered from flu and sore throat on 21 Sept in Namche. The team rested one more day there hoping that Menchenin could recover. But the team had to leave Namche without Menchenin. Menchenin returned Kathmandu on about 25 and left on 27 Sept. North Ridge Attempt: Butov's team originally was to climb North Ridge. The team reached North Ridge BC at 5080m. The team put up about 150m ropes on the ridge on the same day. Next day 1 Oct after Puja the team fix another 50m rope and the following day another 200m. By 9 Oct the team fixed about 1 km of ropes on the ridge up to 5847m. In between, Butov and Vorotnikov suffered from stomach problem and they had to spend two days in Dingboche. The team realized that the progress of fixing line was too slow with limited manpower. The route was full of soft snow and difficult. There always was risk of slipping and was not safe. The team tried to hire Sherpas just to take the loads up but nobody showed interest to do the job saying that it is very dangerous to go up with loads. There were Sherpas who came all the way from Pangboche. Finally, on 9 Oct the expedition decided to quit the North Ridge and to move to normal route. The team cleared the North Ridge route on 11 October and next day moved to normal route BC.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Monterosa Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2459009
Year 2007
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n ridge (to 5847m)

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Alexei Boldyrev M 1957 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Information technology executive Details Other expeditions
Leonid Butov M 1964 Russia Leader Encinitas, California Physicist Details Other expeditions
Sergei Menchenin M 1958 USA Climber Foster City, California Software engineer Details Other expeditions
Sergei Vorotnikov M 1958 Russia Climber Nashua, New Hampshire Computer analyst Details Other expeditions
Ekaterina (Kate) Vorotnikova F 1956 Russia Climber Nashua, New Hampshire Biologist Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.