Ama Dablam | 2007 SW Ridge

A Italy expedition to Ama Dablam in 2007 via SW Ridge, led by Giampietro Verza. Summit reached on 1st May 2007. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 5576
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD07111
Peak ID AMAD
Year 2007
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Giampietro Verza
Sponsor Italians on Ama Dablam
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lukla->Pangboche
Basecamp Date 2007-04-26
Summit Date 2007-05-01
Summit Time -
Summit Days 5
Total Days 8
Termination Date 2007-05-04
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 5900m due to bad weather, not enough time
High Point (m) 5900
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 400
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(26/04,4500m),C1(28/04,5600m),C2(01/05,5900m),xxx(01/05,5900m)
Route Notes Alemanno, Forcatura and Verza and two climbing Sherpas Sete & Rinji left C1 on 1 May at 7:30 am. Weather was good but a lot of fresh snow. They reached C2 at 1 pm. On 2 May it snowed about 20 cm and team descended to BC. They did not dismantle camps, but Sete & Rinji went back up on 3 May to take down both camps. Pesci and Zulian reached 5000m on 28 April. Neither of them was feeling well, so they turned back to BC. They gave it another go on 30 April but turned back at 4800m due to bad weather. They left BC on 1 May and went to Italian Research station, the "Pyramid." They were picked up by helicopter on 4 May. The same helicopter picked up Alemanno & Forcatura from BC. Verza left BC by foot on 5 May. Verza thinks that old C3 is impossible to establish due to the avalanche that came down in autumn 2006. The serac is obviously cracked and could come down any minute. Sherpas refuse to sleep there. He thinks summit push only possible from C2. Verza and Sete Tamang also say that there is not enough snow and ice on upper part of Ama Dablam which has made route more difficult. It's more rocky with big steps. Email from Giampietro Verza - 4 May 2007 Just after sunset Ama Dablam became visible, its about 5 days the mountain was not visible from BC in the evening. Today our Sete and Rinji Sherpa made a long trip, up to C2, directly from BC. To exchange for the first time "light signals" between BC and C2 has been exciting, it gives you the real dimension of the mountain. They climb something like about 1500m from 4400m up to 5900m, in order to clear our 2 camps. At the same time a similar effort is expected if anybody wants to summit this year on this mountain. On the very elegant granite peak 7 lifes were lost last winter, with a huge ice avalanche, and now new difficulties has to be faced for the top. 1) this spring the route is covered with very small snow, this means that in many places you've just to deal with efforting rock steps, where normally its an easy walk on the snow. 2) the ideal site for C3, at about 6500m, is now exposed to icefalls, the serac that lies on the final ice slope is dangerously cracked and all Sherpas refuse to stop under this evident danger. 3) the only solution will be to face a climb of about 1000m from C2 to summit, without stopping under the serac. Taking also in account a long and technical descent. Sherpas: Rinzi Sherpa, 1964-5, Patle-6, Okhaldhunga, no 8000ers Sete Tamang, 1971-2, Lapcha, Gorakhani-8, no 8000ers
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Cho Oyu Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2458839
Year 2007
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Giovanni Alemanno M 1958 Italy Climber Rome, Italy Engineer & parliamentarian (former agriculture minister) Details Other expeditions
Marco Forcatura M 1961 Italy Climber L'Aquila, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Corrado Pesci M 1962 Italy Climber Rome, Italy Construction company owner Details Other expeditions
Giampietro Verza M 1956 Italy Leader Sesto San Giovanni, Milano, Italy Alpine guide & electronics engineer Details Other expeditions
Davide Zulian M 1969 Italy Climber Milano, Italy Architect Details Other expeditions
Rinji/Rinzi Sherpa M 1964 Nepal H-A Worker Patle-6, Okhaldhunga - Details Other expeditions
Sete Tamang M 1970 Nepal H-A Worker Lapcha, Gorakhani-8, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.