Ama Dablam | 2006 SW Ridge
A USA expedition to Ama Dablam in 2006 via SW Ridge, led by Miles Smart. Summit reached on 5th November 2006. 4 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 5500 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | AMAD06352 |
| Peak ID | AMAD |
| Year | 2006 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SW Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | USA |
| Leaders | Miles Smart |
| Sponsor | Americans on Ama Dablam (Mountain Madness) |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Lukla->Namche->Dingboche |
| Basecamp Date | 2006-10-25 |
| Summit Date | 2006-11-05 |
| Summit Time | 1100 |
| Summit Days | 11 |
| Total Days | 13 |
| Termination Date | 2006-11-07 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 6814 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 2 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 4 |
| Summit Members | 2 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 3 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(25/10,4600m),ABC(28/10,5200m),C1(31/10,5700m),C2(04/11,6400m),Smt(05/11) |
| Route Notes | Miles Smart and Eric Dazell made their summit trip from base camp to top to base camp in two and half days. They left base camp at 7:00 am on 4 Nov, slept in C2 that night, left it at 4:00 am and were on the top at 11:00 am of the 5th, arrived back in C2 at 3:00 pm to sleep, and returned to base camp at 1:00 pm on the 6th. On their summit day, the weather "was perfect, no clouds, warm, no wind, full moon," says Smart on 10 Dec. All camps were established for them by Henry Todd's Sherpas, Pasang Dawa (Pa Dawa) and Gurmin. "They set up camps for us as we needed them a day or two before we used them," says Smart in his 11 Dec email. We were the first to use all the tents, then other people used them after us." They had "three porters up and two down (who) carried basically everything we used on the mountain: food, climbing gear, sleeping bags, boots, etc. They went up the day before we slept at ABC, then again the day we slept at C1. The day we descended from C2 to BC the porters met our 2 loads at C1 and brought them down. We carried everything we used on the mountain from C1 to C2 except tent." (Smart's 10 Dec email). These local porters came from Gudel vdc, Solu, according to Todd's non-climbing sirdar, Kami Nuru, who lives in Kathmandu. They were Deepak Rai, Talktse Rai and Ganesh Bahadur Rai. Kami Nuru confirmed that this team were the first foreigners to occupy Todd's camps; base camp was occupied on 23 Oct by the staff. Todd provided not only the tents but also all food, two climbing Sherpas, Gurmin and Pasang Dawa (aka Pa Dawa), and kitchen staff. Eugene (Gene) Rehfeld got to C1 and slept there during the team's acclimatization climb early in the trip, but after his return to BC, he got a bad cough and cold which persisted. He remained at BC till the summit party returned to base. James (Jim) Wiedemer arrived at BC with the team on 25 October, spent one night there, developed "moderate or worse AMS," left the mountain on the 26th, and spent four days in Pangboche. "The AMS got better, but snowballed into other things, which ended the trip for him," says Smart on 10 December. He trekked to Lukla with Henry Todd. |
| Accidents | Wiedemer altitude sickness; Rehfeld cough and cold that persisted |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Mountain Madness |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | False |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2458661 |
| Year | 2006 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | sw ridge |
Members
4 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Eric Lane Dalzell | M | 1983 | USA | Climber | East Medina, Washington | Student | Details Other expeditions |
| Eugene Elwood (Gene) Rehfeld | M | 1945 | USA | Climber | Golden, Colorado | Food salesman | Details Other expeditions |
| Miles Raphael Smart | M | 1980 | USA | Leader | Seattle, Washington | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| James Ivy (Jim) Wiedemer | M | 1953 | USA | Climber | Houston, Texas | Real estate attorney | Details Other expeditions |
References
1 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| AMAD06352 | - | - | http://www.mountainmadness.com/newsroom/newsroom.cfm?dis_id=28 | - | - | - |