Ama Dablam | 2006 W Face up, SW Ridge down

A Japan expedition to Ama Dablam in 2006 via W Face up, SW Ridge down, led by Yasuyuki Shinno. Summit reached on 19th November 2006. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 5468
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD06320
Peak ID AMAD
Year 2006
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face up, SW Ridge down
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Yasuyuki Shinno
Sponsor 2006 Ama Dablam West Face Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2006-11-11
Summit Date 2006-11-19
Summit Time 0920
Summit Days 8
Total Days 11
Termination Date 2006-11-22
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6814
Traverse True
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(11/11,4600m),ABC-Biv(14/11,5050m),Biv1(15/11,5950m),Biv2(16/11,6240m),Biv3(17/11,6270m),Biv4(18/11,6700m),Smt(19/11)
Route Notes BC at normal BC site ABC-Biv at bottom of West Face Biv1 at West Face (middle of face) Biv2 at West Face (middle of face) Biv3 at West Face (middle of face) Biv4 at West Face (middle of face). Climbed a line to left of intended route because the intended route was very steep rock so took less direct line to top on snow and ice not so steep (intended line 70-80 degrees, line taken 50-60 degrees mostly but in 2 sections, 85 degree at 6300m). 9:20 am on top after 40 minutes climb from biv at 6700m, then descended SW Ridge to normal route C1 (very long way) and no fixed rope left by 14 Nov avalanche from 6500-6400m. Returned to C1 5:40 pm ("I'm very tired", Shinno). Yoshida had lost his headlamp and Shinno had to go up from C1 to 5900m to give lamp; Shinno could see well in dark night but Yoshida could not see. 20 Nov to BC. Team had only one tent which they carried with them as they went up and down the mountain; they always climbed together. Yoshida noticed he had 3 frostbitten fingers when he reached C1 on descent; frostbite will probably heal. The big overhanging serac usually seen on West Face was not there in November and their route from biv 2 went right over its former place.
Accidents Yoshida 3 frostbitten fingers
Achievement -
Agency Cosmo Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2458630
Year 2006
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face up, sw ridge down

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Yasuyuki Shinno M 1965 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Takahiro Yoshida M 1976 Japan Climber Yokohama, Japan Trekking guide Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD06320 AAJ Nakamura, Tamotsu - - 81:391-392 (2007) -
AMAD06320 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200739100/Asia-Nepal-Mahalangur-HimalKhumbu-Section-Ama-Dablam-West-Face - - -