Ama Dablam | 2005 SW Ridge
A UK expedition to Ama Dablam in 2005 via SW Ridge, led by Henry Todd. Summit reached on 1st November 2005. 13 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 5117 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | AMAD05329 |
| Peak ID | AMAD |
| Year | 2005 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SW Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | UK |
| Leaders | Henry Todd |
| Sponsor | Himalayan Guides Ama Dablam Expedition 2005 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Brazil, USA |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 2005-10-10 |
| Summit Date | 2005-11-01 |
| Summit Time | 1030 |
| Summit Days | 22 |
| Total Days | 48 |
| Termination Date | 2005-11-27 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 6814 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 2 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 400 |
| Total Members | 11 |
| Summit Members | 5 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 2 |
| Summit Hired | 2 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(10/10,4600m),C1(15/10,5600m),C3(25/10,6300m),Smt(01-02,04/11) |
| Route Notes | There are not so many people climbing Ama Dablam, its ascents don't conform to standard traditional stereotype any longer and experienced climbers don't need guides. The mountain is "self-regulating," i.e., there is only one possible line of ascent on SW Ridge. For inexperienced climbers on Todd's teams there are, for most of the time that his members are on mountain, Todd and Saunders, and always the two Sherpas who have been to top numerous times and can guide them. There is only one technical section: at yellow tower (150m below C2 site about 6000m) because he knew there would be crowds on Ama Dablam, Todd had his Sherpas pitch C1 and C3 before BC. Times of arrival at summit: 1 Nov about 10:30 am (descended to C1 same day) 2 Nov about 2:00 pm 4 Nov about 1:30 pm |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Himalayan Guides |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | False |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2458246 |
| Year | 2005 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | sw ridge |
Members
13 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Douglas George Allen | M | 1954 | UK | Climber | Newcastle-upon-Tyne, England | Accountant | Details Other expeditions |
| Charles Henry Burr | M | 1953 | UK | Climber | Cheltenham, Gloucester, England | Businessman | Details Other expeditions |
| Josephine Francis Cleere | F | 1975 | UK | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Translator | Details Other expeditions |
| Julian Davey | M | 1946 | UK | Climber | Wigton, Cumbria, England | Retired British Council official | Details Other expeditions |
| Rodrigo De Mello | M | 1971 | Brazil | Climber | Itajuba, Brazil | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Michael Quayle | M | 1953 | UK | Climber | Douglas, Isle of Man | Telecommunications expert | Details Other expeditions |
| Arnaldo Adams Ribeiro Pinto | M | 1960 | Brazil | Climber | Sao Paulo, Brazil | Businessman | Details Other expeditions |
| Anthony Victor (Vic) Saunders | M | 1950 | UK | Deputy Leader | Les Houches, Haute-Savoie, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Thomas Jeffrey Schnugg | M | 1962 | USA | Climber | San Rafael, California | Information technology consultant | Details Other expeditions |
| Jadar Silveria Simonelli | M | 1970 | Brazil | Climber | Ribeira, Brazil | Businessman | Details Other expeditions |
| Henry Barclay Todd | M | 1945 | UK | Leader | Kingussie, Inverness, Scotland | Expedition organizer & leader | Details Other expeditions |
| Gurmin Dorje (Girmi Dorje) Sherpa | M | 1976 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Pangboche, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Lhakpa Thundu/Thudu (Tindu) Sherpa | M | 1970 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Pangboche, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
0 recorded references.