Ama Dablam | 2005 A south ridge to east end of East Ridge
A Russia expedition to Ama Dablam in 2005 via A south ridge to east end of East Ridge, led by Oleg Afanasiev. Summit reached on 22nd October 2005. 2 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 5013 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | AMAD05301 |
| Peak ID | AMAD |
| Year | 2005 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | A south ridge to east end of East Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Russia |
| Leaders | Oleg Afanasiev |
| Sponsor | Krasnodar Ama Dablam 2005 |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 2005-10-16 |
| Summit Date | 2005-10-22 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 6 |
| Total Days | 8 |
| Termination Date | 2005-10-24 |
| Termination Reason | 10 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 6300m due to fatigue and length of route |
| High Point (m) | 6300 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 5 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 2 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(16/10,4000m),ABC(17/10,5000m),Biv1(18/10,5500m),Biv2(19/10,5700m),Biv3(20/10,5900m),Biv4(21/10,6100m),Biv5(22/10,6300m),xxx(22/10,6300m) |
| Route Notes | BC at Pangboche village ABC at bottom of mountain but too far east C1 at 1st biv C2 at 2nd biv C3 at 3rd biv C4 at 4th biv on ice shelf sitting C5 at 5th biv on East Ridge High point at 5th biv on East Ridge. Acclimatized on Kalapattar, Everest BC and Island Peak. 18 Oct started alpine style ascent, but ABC placed too far east as actually climbed eastern extension of Ama Dablam; from ABC could not see intended route of Russians in 1994 on East Face but actually climbed up to East Ridge from south. Lot of fresh snow on east, could fix no rope after having reached far eastern end of East Ridge. On 22 Oct then descended to ABC and climb finished. Warm direct sun only from 11:00 am and they stopped at 4:00 pm to make place for tent, which took 3 hours to prepare. This team only 2 members (1994 team had 4 members and was in spring season). Had gotten very cold sitting on ice shelves and very tired after 5 days moving through 1 meter deep snow. Had only 1 snow bar; expected ice. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Royal Mountain Travel |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | False |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2458236 |
| Year | 2005 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | a south ridge to east end of east ridge |
Members
2 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Oleg Gennadievich Afanasiev | M | 1972 | Russia | Leader | Krasnodar, Russia | Mountaineering club president | Details Other expeditions |
| Gennady Viktorovich Dolgov | M | 1962 | Russia | Climber | Maykop, North Caucasus, Russia | Technical controller of pipe systems | Details Other expeditions |
References
1 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| AMAD05301 | CLIM | - | - | - | 25:73 (Mar 2007) | - |