Ama Dablam | 2005 A south ridge to east end of East Ridge

A Russia expedition to Ama Dablam in 2005 via A south ridge to east end of East Ridge, led by Oleg Afanasiev. Summit reached on 22nd October 2005. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 5013
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD05301
Peak ID AMAD
Year 2005
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 A south ridge to east end of East Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Russia
Leaders Oleg Afanasiev
Sponsor Krasnodar Ama Dablam 2005
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2005-10-16
Summit Date 2005-10-22
Summit Time -
Summit Days 6
Total Days 8
Termination Date 2005-10-24
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6300m due to fatigue and length of route
High Point (m) 6300
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(16/10,4000m),ABC(17/10,5000m),Biv1(18/10,5500m),Biv2(19/10,5700m),Biv3(20/10,5900m),Biv4(21/10,6100m),Biv5(22/10,6300m),xxx(22/10,6300m)
Route Notes BC at Pangboche village ABC at bottom of mountain but too far east C1 at 1st biv C2 at 2nd biv C3 at 3rd biv C4 at 4th biv on ice shelf sitting C5 at 5th biv on East Ridge High point at 5th biv on East Ridge. Acclimatized on Kalapattar, Everest BC and Island Peak. 18 Oct started alpine style ascent, but ABC placed too far east as actually climbed eastern extension of Ama Dablam; from ABC could not see intended route of Russians in 1994 on East Face but actually climbed up to East Ridge from south. Lot of fresh snow on east, could fix no rope after having reached far eastern end of East Ridge. On 22 Oct then descended to ABC and climb finished. Warm direct sun only from 11:00 am and they stopped at 4:00 pm to make place for tent, which took 3 hours to prepare. This team only 2 members (1994 team had 4 members and was in spring season). Had gotten very cold sitting on ice shelves and very tired after 5 days moving through 1 meter deep snow. Had only 1 snow bar; expected ice.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Royal Mountain Travel
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2458236
Year 2005
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) a south ridge to east end of east ridge

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Oleg Gennadievich Afanasiev M 1972 Russia Leader Krasnodar, Russia Mountaineering club president Details Other expeditions
Gennady Viktorovich Dolgov M 1962 Russia Climber Maykop, North Caucasus, Russia Technical controller of pipe systems Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD05301 CLIM - - - 25:73 (Mar 2007) -