Ama Dablam | 2004 SW Ridge
A USA expedition to Ama Dablam in 2004 via SW Ridge, led by Luis Benitez. Summit reached on 2nd November 2004. 16 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 4779 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | AMAD04332 |
| Peak ID | AMAD |
| Year | 2004 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SW Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | USA |
| Leaders | Luis Benitez |
| Sponsor | Adventure Consultants Ama Dablam Expedition 2004 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Australia, New Zealand, UK |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 2004-10-23 |
| Summit Date | 2004-11-02 |
| Summit Time | 1400 |
| Summit Days | 10 |
| Total Days | 14 |
| Termination Date | 2004-11-06 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 6814 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 0 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 250 |
| Total Members | 12 |
| Summit Members | 8 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 4 |
| Summit Hired | 4 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | True |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(23/10,4600m),ABC(28/10,5100m),C1(29/10,5400m),C2(31/10,5700m),C3(01/11,6200m),Smt(02-03/1) |
| Route Notes | Too many groups not led properly and irresponsibly and too cheaply. Some Sherpas took other teams fuel and food and even crampons. HMG must restrict permits because of mountain overcrowded. "Almost come to critical mess." Grayson developed serious bronchial infection in C3, used oxygen descending from C2 to C1 and in C1 one night. Anderson got to 5600m only - not a skilled climber. Smith got to C3, then ran out of energy. Varcas got to ABC only, then ran out of energy. (All 3 stayed till climbing finished). |
| Accidents | Grayson's bronchitis |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Himalayan Guides |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | False |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2457836 |
| Year | 2004 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | sw ridge |
Members
16 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jan Marie Anderson | F | 1962 | Australia | Climber | Hawthorn, Victoria, Australia | Chief financial controller | Details Other expeditions |
| Luis Guillermo Benitez | M | 1972 | USA | Leader | Denver, Colorado | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Joseph Michael Coughlin | M | 1959 | USA | Climber | Peyton, Colorado | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Hamish Emerson | M | 1974 | New Zealand | Climber | Queenstown, New Zealand | Cameraman and director of documentary film production company | Details Other expeditions |
| Joanne Rachel (Jo) Gambi | F | 1969 | UK | Climber | London, England | Physiotherapist | Details Other expeditions |
| Robert John (Rob) Gambi | M | 1958 | Australia | Climber | London, England | Fund manager | Details Other expeditions |
| Andrew (Andy) Grayson | M | 1966 | UK | Climber | Altrincham, Cheshire, England | Leasing broker | Details Other expeditions |
| Todd Elman Holt | M | 1952 | USA | Climber | Stillwater, Minnesota | Electrical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Paul Vincent Rogers | M | 1962 | UK | Deputy Leader | Wanaka, New Zealand | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Mark Richard Sedon | M | 1969 | New Zealand | Deputy Leader | Lake Hawea, New Zealand | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Catherine (Kate) Smith | F | 1961 | UK | Climber | Wellington, New Zealand | Planning director | Details Other expeditions |
| Philip George Varcas | M | 1975 | UK | Climber | Reading, Berkshire, England | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa | M | 1961 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Sanam, Gudel-4, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Pasang Tenzing Sherpa | M | 1978 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Phortse, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Phu Tashi Sherpa | M | 1972 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Pangboche, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Pasang Dawa Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | Khumjung, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| AMAD04332 | - | - | http://www.adventureconsultants.com/adventure/Dispatches_Archived/ | - | - | - |
| AMAD04332 | AAJ | Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 79:392-393 (2005) | - |
| AMAD04332 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200539202/Asia-Nepal-Khumbu-Region-Mahalangur-Himal-Ama-Dablam-Crowds-on-Normal-Route | - | - | - |