Ama Dablam | 2004 SW Ridge

A USA expedition to Ama Dablam in 2004 via SW Ridge, led by Luis Benitez. Summit reached on 2nd November 2004. 16 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4779
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD04332
Peak ID AMAD
Year 2004
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Luis Benitez
Sponsor Adventure Consultants Ama Dablam Expedition 2004
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia, New Zealand, UK
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2004-10-23
Summit Date 2004-11-02
Summit Time 1400
Summit Days 10
Total Days 14
Termination Date 2004-11-06
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6814
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 250
Total Members 12
Summit Members 8
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 4
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(23/10,4600m),ABC(28/10,5100m),C1(29/10,5400m),C2(31/10,5700m),C3(01/11,6200m),Smt(02-03/1)
Route Notes Too many groups not led properly and irresponsibly and too cheaply. Some Sherpas took other teams fuel and food and even crampons. HMG must restrict permits because of mountain overcrowded. "Almost come to critical mess." Grayson developed serious bronchial infection in C3, used oxygen descending from C2 to C1 and in C1 one night. Anderson got to 5600m only - not a skilled climber. Smith got to C3, then ran out of energy. Varcas got to ABC only, then ran out of energy. (All 3 stayed till climbing finished).
Accidents Grayson's bronchitis
Achievement -
Agency Himalayan Guides
Commercial Route True
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2457836
Year 2004
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

16 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jan Marie Anderson F 1962 Australia Climber Hawthorn, Victoria, Australia Chief financial controller Details Other expeditions
Luis Guillermo Benitez M 1972 USA Leader Denver, Colorado Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Joseph Michael Coughlin M 1959 USA Climber Peyton, Colorado Engineer Details Other expeditions
Hamish Emerson M 1974 New Zealand Climber Queenstown, New Zealand Cameraman and director of documentary film production company Details Other expeditions
Joanne Rachel (Jo) Gambi F 1969 UK Climber London, England Physiotherapist Details Other expeditions
Robert John (Rob) Gambi M 1958 Australia Climber London, England Fund manager Details Other expeditions
Andrew (Andy) Grayson M 1966 UK Climber Altrincham, Cheshire, England Leasing broker Details Other expeditions
Todd Elman Holt M 1952 USA Climber Stillwater, Minnesota Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Paul Vincent Rogers M 1962 UK Deputy Leader Wanaka, New Zealand Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Mark Richard Sedon M 1969 New Zealand Deputy Leader Lake Hawea, New Zealand Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Catherine (Kate) Smith F 1961 UK Climber Wellington, New Zealand Planning director Details Other expeditions
Philip George Varcas M 1975 UK Climber Reading, Berkshire, England Engineer Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa M 1961 Nepal H-A Worker Sanam, Gudel-4, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Tenzing Sherpa M 1978 Nepal H-A Worker Phortse, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Phu Tashi Sherpa M 1972 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Dawa Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.