Ama Dablam | 2004 SW Ridge

A UK expedition to Ama Dablam in 2004 via SW Ridge, led by Henry Todd. Summit reached on 26th October 2004. 32 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4775
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD04328
Peak ID AMAD
Year 2004
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Henry Todd
Sponsor Himalayan Guides Ama Dablam Expedition 2004
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Ecuador, France, Georgia, Italy, USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2004-10-23
Summit Date 2004-10-26
Summit Time 1100
Summit Days 3
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6814
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 30
Summit Members 19
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(15,22-27/10,4600m),ABC(20/10,5200m),C1(22-23/10,5600m),C3(27-28/10,6250m),Smt(26,28/10),Smt(04,07-08,17/11)
Route Notes Henry Todd BC 15 Oct 22-27 Oct at 4600m ABC 20 Oct at 5200m C1 at 22-23 Oct at 5600m C3 at 27-38 Oct at 6250m Todd moved "his teams to mountain after others had left or one leaving and try to have as little impact on available space for camps; has BC in own site, minimized usage space available to us and not try to send flood of people up at same time or part of tents left empty much of the time." Used ABC because of crowding at C1. Only 5-6 people summiting at a time, minimizing crowding. Sherpa summiters: Pasang Dawa (aka Pa Dawa), Pangboche, Everest X5 Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X4 Gurmin Dorje, Pangboche, Everest X3 Members came to BC and left at different times. Some never met each other; not one team. Todd provided all facilities for members to come and go up mountain and go as they pleased. Maegan Carney's information: Before I went to Ama Dablam, I went to Lobuche East and Island Peak. I climbed [on Ama Dablam] alone but camped with David Mellor; David Mellor was accompanied by Gurmin Sherpa from Pangboche. David summited at 11 am. Tim Calder and Guy Hembury summited at 12 noon with Pasang Dawa. Clear morning with light wind, very cold. By 10:30 clouds had filled the valleys. By noon, cloudy skies with short periods of visability. David Wright - 22 June 2006 (by email) After consultation, the results are as follows. Irene Shorhadze, Ellen Miller, Chris Brand and Gurmin Dorje summitted together at 11.45 am on 4th November 2004, Pasang Dawa summitted at 11:55 approximately, and I summitted 20 minutes after the main group at 12:05. [Joby Ogwyn, Brendan Leech and Allessandra Pasquino climbed part way up Ama Dablam to film the mountain.]
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Himalayan Guides
Commercial Route True
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2457829
Year 2004
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

32 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jaime Enrique Avila Velez M 1966 Ecuador Climber Quito, Ecuador Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Michael H. Bahamonde M 1960 USA Climber New York, New York Architect Details Other expeditions
Adrian John Ballinger M 1976 UK Climber Aspen, Colorado Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Christopher Brand M 1945 UK Climber Besselsleigh, Oxford, England Retired army colonel Details Other expeditions
Philippe Burlet M 1961 France Climber Avignon, Vaucluse, France Trekking guide Details Other expeditions
Timothy Miles Halcott (Tim) Calder M 1967 UK Climber Kathmandu Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Maegan Carney F 1965 USA Climber Canmore, Alberta Professional skier Details Other expeditions
Raleigh Coburn F 1973 USA Climber Copper Mountain, Colorado Alpine instructor and guide & medical technician Details Other expeditions
David J. (Smiler) Cuthbertson M 1948 UK Climber Wombourne, England Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Joseph A. De Francis M 1954 USA Climber Chevy Chase, Maryland Business executive (owner of several race courses) Details Other expeditions
David Dewar M 1966 UK Climber Edinburgh, Scotland Trekking guide Details Other expeditions
Guy Alexander Hembury M 1974 UK Climber Rotherham, S Yorkshire, England Technician Details Other expeditions
Philip Hogan M 1959 UK Climber London, England Writer Details Other expeditions
Brendan Leech M 1961 USA Climber Santa Monica, California Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Monte Scott Lunacek M 1973 USA Climber Colorado Springs, Colorado Graduate student Details Other expeditions
George David Mellor M 1942 UK Climber Freeport, Bahamas Retired businessman Details Other expeditions
Bradley E. Mering M 1981 USA Climber White Hall, Maryland Student Details Other expeditions
Ellen Elizabeth Miller F 1959 USA Climber Aspen, Colorado Teacher Details Other expeditions
Stephen Newman M 1949 UK Climber Cambridge, England Instructor Details Other expeditions
Alexander (Sandy) Ogilvie M 1956 UK Climber London, England Retired Details Other expeditions
Joby David Ogwyn M 1974 USA Climber Bergamo, Italy Alpinist & film-maker Details Other expeditions
Allessandra Pasquino F 1960 Italy Climber Santa Monica, California Film producer Details Other expeditions
Anthony Victor (Vic) Saunders M 1950 UK Climber Les Houches, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Philippe Scheidecker M 1960 France Climber Paris, France Software company staff member Details Other expeditions
Irene Shorhadze F 1976 Georgia Climber New York, New York Student Details Other expeditions
Neal James Short M 1970 UK Climber Liverpool, Merseyside, England Teacher Details Other expeditions
Henry Barclay Todd M 1945 UK Leader Kingussie, Inverness, Scotland Expedition organizer & leader Details Other expeditions
Susan Harper Todd F 1960 UK Climber Kingussie, Inverness, Scotland Translator Details Other expeditions
David S. (Blyth) Wright M 1943 UK Climber Aviemore, Inverness, Scotland Avalanche service manager Details Other expeditions
Gurmin Dorje (Girmi Dorje) Sherpa M 1976 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Dawa (Pa Dawa, Pando) Sherpa M 1977 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Gregory Peter (Greg) Vadasdi M 1976 USA Climber New York, New York Finance (private venture capital) Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD04328 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 79:392-393 (2005) -
AMAD04328 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200539202/Asia-Nepal-Khumbu-Region-Mahalangur-Himal-Ama-Dablam-Crowds-on-Normal-Route - - -