Ama Dablam | 2004 SW Ridge
A UK expedition to Ama Dablam in 2004 via SW Ridge, led by Henry Todd. Summit reached on 26th October 2004. 32 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 4775 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | AMAD04328 |
| Peak ID | AMAD |
| Year | 2004 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SW Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | UK |
| Leaders | Henry Todd |
| Sponsor | Himalayan Guides Ama Dablam Expedition 2004 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Ecuador, France, Georgia, Italy, USA |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 2004-10-23 |
| Summit Date | 2004-10-26 |
| Summit Time | 1100 |
| Summit Days | 3 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 6814 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 2 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 30 |
| Summit Members | 19 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 2 |
| Summit Hired | 2 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(15,22-27/10,4600m),ABC(20/10,5200m),C1(22-23/10,5600m),C3(27-28/10,6250m),Smt(26,28/10),Smt(04,07-08,17/11) |
| Route Notes | Henry Todd BC 15 Oct 22-27 Oct at 4600m ABC 20 Oct at 5200m C1 at 22-23 Oct at 5600m C3 at 27-38 Oct at 6250m Todd moved "his teams to mountain after others had left or one leaving and try to have as little impact on available space for camps; has BC in own site, minimized usage space available to us and not try to send flood of people up at same time or part of tents left empty much of the time." Used ABC because of crowding at C1. Only 5-6 people summiting at a time, minimizing crowding. Sherpa summiters: Pasang Dawa (aka Pa Dawa), Pangboche, Everest X5 Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X4 Gurmin Dorje, Pangboche, Everest X3 Members came to BC and left at different times. Some never met each other; not one team. Todd provided all facilities for members to come and go up mountain and go as they pleased. Maegan Carney's information: Before I went to Ama Dablam, I went to Lobuche East and Island Peak. I climbed [on Ama Dablam] alone but camped with David Mellor; David Mellor was accompanied by Gurmin Sherpa from Pangboche. David summited at 11 am. Tim Calder and Guy Hembury summited at 12 noon with Pasang Dawa. Clear morning with light wind, very cold. By 10:30 clouds had filled the valleys. By noon, cloudy skies with short periods of visability. David Wright - 22 June 2006 (by email) After consultation, the results are as follows. Irene Shorhadze, Ellen Miller, Chris Brand and Gurmin Dorje summitted together at 11.45 am on 4th November 2004, Pasang Dawa summitted at 11:55 approximately, and I summitted 20 minutes after the main group at 12:05. [Joby Ogwyn, Brendan Leech and Allessandra Pasquino climbed part way up Ama Dablam to film the mountain.] |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Himalayan Guides |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | False |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2457829 |
| Year | 2004 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | sw ridge |
Members
32 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jaime Enrique Avila Velez | M | 1966 | Ecuador | Climber | Quito, Ecuador | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Michael H. Bahamonde | M | 1960 | USA | Climber | New York, New York | Architect | Details Other expeditions |
| Adrian John Ballinger | M | 1976 | UK | Climber | Aspen, Colorado | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Christopher Brand | M | 1945 | UK | Climber | Besselsleigh, Oxford, England | Retired army colonel | Details Other expeditions |
| Philippe Burlet | M | 1961 | France | Climber | Avignon, Vaucluse, France | Trekking guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Timothy Miles Halcott (Tim) Calder | M | 1967 | UK | Climber | Kathmandu | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Maegan Carney | F | 1965 | USA | Climber | Canmore, Alberta | Professional skier | Details Other expeditions |
| Raleigh Coburn | F | 1973 | USA | Climber | Copper Mountain, Colorado | Alpine instructor and guide & medical technician | Details Other expeditions |
| David J. (Smiler) Cuthbertson | M | 1948 | UK | Climber | Wombourne, England | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Joseph A. De Francis | M | 1954 | USA | Climber | Chevy Chase, Maryland | Business executive (owner of several race courses) | Details Other expeditions |
| David Dewar | M | 1966 | UK | Climber | Edinburgh, Scotland | Trekking guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Guy Alexander Hembury | M | 1974 | UK | Climber | Rotherham, S Yorkshire, England | Technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Philip Hogan | M | 1959 | UK | Climber | London, England | Writer | Details Other expeditions |
| Brendan Leech | M | 1961 | USA | Climber | Santa Monica, California | Carpenter | Details Other expeditions |
| Monte Scott Lunacek | M | 1973 | USA | Climber | Colorado Springs, Colorado | Graduate student | Details Other expeditions |
| George David Mellor | M | 1942 | UK | Climber | Freeport, Bahamas | Retired businessman | Details Other expeditions |
| Bradley E. Mering | M | 1981 | USA | Climber | White Hall, Maryland | Student | Details Other expeditions |
| Ellen Elizabeth Miller | F | 1959 | USA | Climber | Aspen, Colorado | Teacher | Details Other expeditions |
| Stephen Newman | M | 1949 | UK | Climber | Cambridge, England | Instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Alexander (Sandy) Ogilvie | M | 1956 | UK | Climber | London, England | Retired | Details Other expeditions |
| Joby David Ogwyn | M | 1974 | USA | Climber | Bergamo, Italy | Alpinist & film-maker | Details Other expeditions |
| Allessandra Pasquino | F | 1960 | Italy | Climber | Santa Monica, California | Film producer | Details Other expeditions |
| Anthony Victor (Vic) Saunders | M | 1950 | UK | Climber | Les Houches, Haute-Savoie, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Philippe Scheidecker | M | 1960 | France | Climber | Paris, France | Software company staff member | Details Other expeditions |
| Irene Shorhadze | F | 1976 | Georgia | Climber | New York, New York | Student | Details Other expeditions |
| Neal James Short | M | 1970 | UK | Climber | Liverpool, Merseyside, England | Teacher | Details Other expeditions |
| Henry Barclay Todd | M | 1945 | UK | Leader | Kingussie, Inverness, Scotland | Expedition organizer & leader | Details Other expeditions |
| Susan Harper Todd | F | 1960 | UK | Climber | Kingussie, Inverness, Scotland | Translator | Details Other expeditions |
| David S. (Blyth) Wright | M | 1943 | UK | Climber | Aviemore, Inverness, Scotland | Avalanche service manager | Details Other expeditions |
| Gurmin Dorje (Girmi Dorje) Sherpa | M | 1976 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Pangboche, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Pasang Dawa (Pa Dawa, Pando) Sherpa | M | 1977 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Pangboche, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Gregory Peter (Greg) Vadasdi | M | 1976 | USA | Climber | New York, New York | Finance (private venture capital) | Details Other expeditions |
References
2 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| AMAD04328 | AAJ | Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 79:392-393 (2005) | - |
| AMAD04328 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200539202/Asia-Nepal-Khumbu-Region-Mahalangur-Himal-Ama-Dablam-Crowds-on-Normal-Route | - | - | - |