Ama Dablam | 2004 NE Ridge
A Netherlands expedition to Ama Dablam in 2004 via NE Ridge, led by Court Haegens. Summit reached on 21st October 2004. 3 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 4763 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | AMAD04315 |
| Peak ID | AMAD |
| Year | 2004 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | NE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Netherlands |
| Leaders | Court Haegens |
| Sponsor | Ama Dablam North Ridge Expedition 2004 |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 2004-10-05 |
| Summit Date | 2004-10-21 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 16 |
| Total Days | 19 |
| Termination Date | 2004-10-24 |
| Termination Reason | 10 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 5400m due to lack of trust amongst members |
| High Point (m) | 5400 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 0 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 3 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Climbed Pokalde |
| Campsites | BC(05/10,4750m),ABC(13/10,5100m),xxx(21/10,5400m) |
| Route Notes | BC at Chhukung village (in lodge) ABC at behind (west) moraine ridge. Between 5th and 13th did some acclimatizing on Chhukung Ri and then Pokalde (summit by all members 10th Oct). 13th and 14th snowfall; on 14th back to BC. Up again on 17th Oct to ABC with porters carrying all gear. 18th recce to col at foot of North Ridge. 20th up to C2 and climbed 2 pitches but very difficult with snow over granite rock; at 2nd pitch loose powder snow waist-deep so back from 5500m on North Ridge to ABC. 21st Michael did recce of NE Ridge's normal route but also had no chance to climb very difficult rock step so back to ABC. Plan for other 2 to go as high as possible fixing ropes while Michael to Chhukung to bring more food from lodge, but Anne and Haegens got only to end of moraine, 50m rock from ABC then back to ABC. Problem was within team; you must have trust in each other, to spend 10 days on technically difficult route in alpine-style. 21st Michael went up to NE Ridge to 5400m in recce. 22nd decided to abandon climb. Stress in interpersonal relation amongst members made Michael's problem of bad headache from brain nerves under stress so this another factor in decision not to continue. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Summit Nepal Trekking |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | False |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2457824 |
| Year | 2004 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | ne ridge |
Members
3 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Court Haegens | M | 1971 | Netherlands | Leader | Delft, Netherlands | Architect | Details Other expeditions |
| Anne Van Galen | F | 1973 | Netherlands | Climber | Leiden, Netherlands | Consultant in safety & crisis management for business and others | Details Other expeditions |
| Michael Van Geemen | M | 1966 | Netherlands | Climber | Utrecht, Netherlands | Sculptor | Details Other expeditions |
References
0 recorded references.