Ama Dablam | 2001 W Spur-NW Ridge (to 6000m)

A UK expedition to Ama Dablam in 2001 via W Spur-NW Ridge (to 6000m), led by Julian Cartwright. Summit reached on 10th November 2001. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3867
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD01301
Peak ID AMAD
Year 2001
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Spur-NW Ridge (to 6000m)
Route 2 NW Ridge (from its base to top)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Julian Cartwright
Sponsor -
Success 1 False
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 373
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2001-10-25
Summit Date 2001-11-10
Summit Time 0930
Summit Days 16
Total Days 20
Termination Date 2001-11-14
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6814
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(25/10,3956m),Bivs(01-11/09/11),Smt(10/11)
Route Notes 4 hrs from Pangboche to start of rock of ridge. Had no fixed camps or ropes. Made ascent in one continuous push with series of bivouacs to top. Pushed up ridge on 1 Nov and first day good progress, then basically steady progress till last day to top with 600m climbed that day. 5 biv on ridge to point when West Spur joins ridge, then 3 on flat section and finally on biv on 9th at point where to North Face joins and NW Ridge at about 100m from top. "Quite technically difficult" (Scottish Grade 6). Will never be guided. Started push on 1st Nov. On top at 9:30 am in easy snow down from last biv to top. Then down to the only biv in descent at about 6200m: "football field" on very stable serac. Meantime Chinnery and Coull 28th started on West Spur to ridge and in 3 days got to 6000m and gave up on 1-2 Nov because of bad rock (spur joins ridge at about 6100m). Hollinger and Sharpe tried same spur to same high point on 5 Nov, but "rock hadn't got any better."
Accidents Nothing except Hollinger's slight frostbite
Achievement -
Agency Arun Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2456700
Year 2001
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w spur-nw ridge (to 6000m)

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jonathan (Jon) Bracey M 1977 UK Climber Perrystone, Ross-on-Wye, England Geologist Details Other expeditions
Julian C. S. (Jules) Cartwright M 1974 UK Leader Sheffield, S Yorkshire, England Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Samuel (Sam) Chinnery M 1977 UK Climber Langholm, Dumfries, Scotland Construction worker Details Other expeditions
Alasdair (Ali) Coull M 1977 UK Climber Forfar, Scotland Worker on tall buildings Details Other expeditions
Richard Thomas (Rich) Cross M 1972 UK Climber Sheffield, S Yorkshire, England Teacher, worker on tall buildings and trainee guide Details Other expeditions
David (Dave) Hollinger M 1975 UK Climber Aviemore, Inverness, Scotland Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Owen Samuel M 1976 UK Climber Windermere, Cumbria, England Teacher Details Other expeditions
Andrew (Andy) Sharpe M 1977 UK Climber Selkirk, Borders, Scotland Physician (senior house officer) Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD01301 HIGH - - - 239:67-68 (Oct 2002) -
AMAD01301 AAJ Cartwright, Jules - - 76:408-409 (2002) -
AMAD01301 AJ Cartwright, Jules Ama Dablam - 107:18-22 (2002) -
AMAD01301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200240802/Asia-Nepal-Khumbu-Himal-Ama-Dablam-Northwest-Ridge-First-Ascent - - -
AMAD01301 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2002_files/AJ%202002%2018-22%20Cartwright%20Ama%20Dablam.pdf - - -