Aichyn | 2018

A France expedition to Aichyn in 2018, led by Francois Damilano, Gregoire Lestienne. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 9945
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ACHN18301
Peak ID ACHN
Year 2018
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 -
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Francois Damilano, Gregoire Lestienne
Sponsor French Aichyn Expeditions 2018
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Nepalgung->Simikot
Basecamp Date -
Summit Date -
Summit Time -
Summit Days 0
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 12
Termination Notes Climbed other peaks in region
High Point (m) 0
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Took permit for Aichin (ACHN), but climbed other peaks instead (see route notes)
Campsites -
Route Notes Summit of Limi Koti: Oct 5 by Lestienne group Summit of Shikan Ri: Oct 9 by Damilano group Attempt of Peak without Name 1: Oct 11 by Lestienne group plus FD and UL Summit of Peak without Name 2 : Oct 11 by Lestienne group plus FD and UL Summit of Pasang Peak: Oct 14 by Lestienne group West summit of Pasang Peak: Oct 14 by UL and FD 2 French teams combining Damilano group and Lestienne groups took permit for Aichyn, but climbed other peaks. Made round trip from Simikot around Limi Himal. Group of Lestienne included Lestienne, Florian Pugin, Julien Desecures and Evelyne Miot. The other French group following slightly different schedule was led by Francois Damilano with Ulysse Lefebvre and 2 clients (Perazio and Talopp). Joined all together at BC. Schedule : Arrival date at Simikot: Sept 28 Trekking starting date: Sept 29 Lestienne and Damilano's group walked together via villages including the one of Hepka, then at Selina Camp and Talung camps. From there Damilano and Lestienne group split; the latter walked up eastwards aiming for "Limi Koti" (a peak without name 6190m/Alti 6170m; christening proposal of "Limi Koti" for it). Oct 4: established BC at 4960m, west from the Limit Koti. Oct 5: climbed to the top via SW Face, then SW Ridge. Average difficulties estimated to (800m/AD-/snow up to 50°) in French grade. First intended to traverse eastward then northeast to reach Nying BC, but without much acclimatization and a weather forecast not annouced good enough, so turned back from summit back to BC on that day. Lestienne group couldn't get mules from Damilano despite messages sent (Damilano never got it) so would have to carry their gear by themselves. Lestienne group walked after Damilano via Nying Khola (W to E orientated) flat dry valley, 11 kms long, magnificent place with yacks spread everywhere and sheperds huts. Oct 7: Lestienne group slept at Bishal BC at 4800m. Oct 8: Lestienne group reached Nying BC, where Damilano group had already arrived on Oct 6. Meanwhile Damilano group had been up for reconnaissance on Oct 6 to C1 site located at 5270m; Damilano group went back to C1 for deposit on Oct 7 at 5270m then back to BC; Damilano group slept at C1 on Oct 8; Damilano group summited Shikan Ri (5996m) on Oct 9 (700m/F), clients going back to BC on that day when FD and UL stayed at C1. Oct 9: Lestienne group had a rest day after intense walking days. Oct 10: Lestienne group went up to sleep at C1 where FD and UL were staying. Oct 11: all 6 members (Damilano, Lefebvre, Lestienne, Desecures, Miot, Pugin) attempted Peak Without Name 1, kind of Dent du Geant (58XXm) via its N Face (very difficult route, TD equivalent), about 100m high and located east of Shikan Ri. Team met with plaquee snow, so stopped 40m below the summit due to delicate mixed ground conditions. Then they climbed the good looking little Peak Without Name 2 located between PWN 1 and Shikan Ri (5996m). Storm came at beginning of the descent at about 5800m, losing trail from there. 3 mountain guides but had no GPS tracking! Lestienne was testing the ground in front, and hardly seeing, eventually they could find route back down. At C1 got even harder conditions. In the windy snowy night got up to 30cms of snow fall. Oct 12: all to BC. Oct 13: all had rest day. Oct 14: Lestienne group without FD and UL set up a new C1 eastwards from Nying BC at 5300m below Pasang peak (altitude 6065/6070 GPS 6061 +-5m). Meanwhile, UL and FD were setting an other C1 NNEastwards from Nying BC at c.5200m. Oct 15: Lestienne group climbed Phasang peak from south face towards a couloir leading up to 40m below the summit. Met with rotten rock from there to the top (average difficulties of PD+/AD- grade, 45° slopes maximum). On that day Floriane and Grégoire went down to Nying BC ; Julien and Evelyne slept at C1. Meanwhile FD and UL had climbed the W Face of the Western foresummit of Pasang Peak. Went back down straight to BC on that day. Oct 16: east of BC, established a new multi-pitch route on the right side of a granite rock face, called "Tour MCL" (exit at 5200m, start at c.5000m): "Li Mini Keums" (250m/4c-5a), climbing with big shoes. Nice rock, possibilities on steeper part of the face to the left. Other people were resting. Julien and Evelyne were back to BC for resting on that day. Oct 17: all 8 members left BC with muleteers aiming to reach Pasang La (5448m, north-eastwards from Nying BC) despite trying it out of the official opening period (June to September on the maps, since mules cannot reach the col in snowy conditions). Despite deteriorating weather coming from SW, they made it and slept at Tsutuma on that evening. Lestienne group initially intended to traverse Limi massif first W-E traverse to Nying BC, then N-S towards Simikot. Lack of acclimatization at the beginning, weather conditions and mountain conditions (snowy northern parts were generally offering deep snow to break the trail..."we would have needed rackets!") prevented them to try both times. Oct 20: reached Simikot. Potential for climbing: Nying BC already got 6/7 BC areas set up there => previous teams went there for sure. - Area explored by Freeman-Atwood (comes here since 10 years, has his gear stored at Simikot); southeast part of the massif = Dojan Himal (6246m), tried for the least (?) by Julian Freeman-Atwood. - Japanese came last year: Sumdo Himal christiened by them? Nying Ri and Nying are both magnificent summits with lots of lines possibilities. Paulo Grobel doesn't think it's climbed. Pasang likely was likely already climbed. Rocky face east from Nying BC offering opening possibilities on the steeper left side plus a nice pillar above it to link. Massive face of Gurka Khang east of Tangjung (Freeman-Atwood?). Massive rocky valley potential between Dojan (1 day from Simikot) and Tangjung villages, with kind of Les Drus tower on the east side of it. Kind of accessible Taghia valley!
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Himalayan Travellers Nepal
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 4718
Year 2018
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) -

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Francois Damilano M 1959 France Co-Leader Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Gregoire Jerome Lestienne M 1986 France Co-Leader Passy, Haute-Savoie, France Alpinge guide Details Other expeditions
Julien Pierre Henri Desecures M 1973 France Climber Gieres, Isere, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Evelyne Desecures-Miot F 1983 France Climber Gieres, Isere, France Mathematics researcher Details Other expeditions
Ulysse Francois Albert Lefebvre M 1983 France Climber Cruet, Savoie, France Photographer Details Other expeditions
Guy Jean Leon Perazio M 1952 France Climber Saint Romans, Isere, France Surveyor Details Other expeditions
Floriane Caroline Pugin F 1989 France Climber Passy, Haute-Savoie, France Engineer Details Other expeditions
Jean-Rene Yves Gilbert Talopp M 1950 France Climber Ville-d'Avray, Ile-de-France, France Consultant Details Other expeditions
Dhan Bahadur Magar M 1986 Nepal Sirdar Wapsa, Waku-8, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.